Surrey’s best tea shops: Parisian pantries to countryside coffee houses

Every month, Surrey Life magazine showcases one of the area’s best tea shops, from Parisian pantries to countryside coffee houses. Below you'll find abridged versions of Louise Johncox's Tea Shop Trail column...

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Nominate your favourite tea shops by e-mailing editor@surreylife.co.uk

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine March 2012

The Tea Box, Richmond

The low-down:
Opened in October 2007 by owners Jemma Swallow and Mike De Souza, The Tea Box is a specialist tea house in the heart of Richmond offering over 60 varieties of tea and tea-infused treats. Jemma, 43, a former online editor, was inspired to open the tea house to pursue her passion for tea and to leave a legacy. Her partner, Mike, a former chef, also runs events at The Tea Box, including poetry jams, a noveltea club, a teanies group and tea-hee comedy nights. “Having a Yorkshire dad, I think I had tea in my baby bottle,” laughs Jemma. “I wanted to create a tea house that is unique and I believe we offer some of the best teas in the world.”

Best table:
The table on the upper mezzanine with Edwardian armchairs is apparently the most popular. I sat by the window on the ground floor and enjoyed a view of a tea plantation oil painting. The tea house attracts a mix of customers: writers, mums, children, elderly people and tourists. One poet, Elizabeth Darcy-Jones, was so inspired she wrote a book of tea-themed poetry, Distinguished Leaves, while Gadget Show host and author Jason Bradbury penned Dot Robot: Cyber Gold while sipping tea there.

The verdict:
The Tea Box offers a true teatime experience with a diverse selection of loose leaf teas and advice on hand from tea sommelier Jemma, the Heston Blumenthal of the tea world. The scones and cakes are top rate and the tea gifts are original. Watch out for the Sovereigntea (a blend of rosebuds and cornflowers) to celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.

• The Tea Box, 7 Paradise Road, Richmond TW91RX. Tel: 0208 940 3521 / www.theteabox.co.uk.

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine February 2012

Nonsuch Pantry, Cheam

The lowdown:
Located next to the stunning Nonsuch Mansion, which was built in 1731, Nonsuch Pantry re-opened in June 2011 after being refurbished, making it a special rendezvous in a beautiful setting. Run by Julie and Andrew Gray, The Pantry certainly seems to have won the approval of Surrey Life readers, judging by the number of recommendations we have received! The Grade II Georgian mansion house is set in 300 acres of parkland so there is no excuse not to go for a lovely walk before or after your tea and cake.

Best table:
Inside, there are two large verdigris-style tables, three small tables and a sofa. There are also several tables outside, which are popular with walkers in the nearby Nonsuch Park, especially as there are water bowls for dogs. I sat at a table by the window, which gave me a view of the cakes, the gifts and the courtyard where walkers sat with take-away cups of tea or coffee and a cake.

Verdict:
The Pantry attracts a mix of local mums, retired people and dog walkers. One customer’s response to the fare displayed on the counter sums up the Pantry experience: “Just look at those cakes!” They do look almost too good to eat, but I doubt you’ll be able to resist the Chelsea bun or even a spot of present-buying.

• Nonsuch Pantry, Nonsuch Park, Ewell Road, Cheam SM3 8AL: 0208 786 8124. Open every day, 9am–3.30pm. See www.nonsuchmansion.com (click on news and events) or visit www.facebook.com/NonsuchPantry.

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine January 2012

The Vintage Tea House, Reigate

The low-down
Opened in July 2005 by owner Nina Cooper, 45, the Vintage Tea House is both a charming specialist tea room and  a gift shop. Nina was inspired to open her own tea room/shop following a stint running a café at Dulwich Picture Gallery. Nina’s husband, Phil Cooper, a Michelin-starred chef and head chef for the Mark Hix group, helped devise the menu. He has plenty of experience having worked with Michel Roux Sr at The Waterside Inn and Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. “I wanted to combine selling gifts and furniture with a tea room,” explains Nina. “Also, Reigate is a lovely market town and there is a strong community feel.”

Best Table
There are nine tables and 24 seats but the window table is the most popular, according to Nina. Here, customers can watch the world go by and also check out the eclectic range of gifts on sale in the shop. The tea house attracts a mix of customers: elderly people in the morning enjoy a pot of tea and toasted teacakes; mums, children and office workers at lunchtime; and young couples at weekends.

The Verdict
The Vintage Tea House offers tasty home-made pastries and original lunches in a unique setting. This is the perfect place to treat yourself or a friend to a cake or meal, plus if you’re looking for a present then this is the place to come.

• The Vintage Tea House, 17 Church Street, Reigate, Surrey RH2 OAA. Open Monday to Friday, 9am-5pm; Saturday, 9am-5.30pm; Sunday, 10am-4pm. Tel: 01737 226 561 / www.vintagetea.co.uk.

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine November 2011

The Chocolate Teapot, Esher

The low-down
Opened in August 2010 by owner Jane Holt, a youthful 57-year-old who gave up a career as a nursery teacher to follow her dream of running her own tea shop, The Chocolate Teapot is a charming tea house tucked away near Esher station.

Best table
There are eight tables inside and mine on the left hand side was a perfect
spot to spy the Victoria sponge and carrot cake. Meanwhile, the windows near the front were popular with young mums and children, given the wonderful display of teddy bears. Jane also showed me a pretty paved area where dog walkers enjoy their afternoon tea with their companions sitting faithfully nearby.

The verdict
The Chocolate Teapot has a community feeling with a mix of customers ranging from courting teenagers to young mums and pensioners. Home-baked cakes and a warm atmosphere make this a popular hideaway.

• The Chocolate Teapot, 4 Station Road, Esher, Surrey KT10 8DY. Open 8.30am–5pm every day except Wednesday. Tel: 0208 398 8866

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine October 2011

The Magna Carta Tearoom, Egham

The low-down 
Opened in March 1996 by Richard Knight, 46, a former advertising executive, and his wife, Leigh, the Magna Carta Tearoom is situated on the edge of the historic Runnymede meadows.

Best table
My favourite table is in front of the pine dresser, which is filled with Magna Carta memorabilia, china teacups, doilies and an eye-catching teapot made out of tea leaves created by a local art student. 

The verdict
The Magna Carta Tearoom is the ideal place for a cup of tea and cake or a hearty English breakfast after a walk in the surrounding historic landscape. Richard flits between the kitchen and the café making sure customers are happy. It’s easy to find and you can park in the National Trust car park.

• The Magna Carta Tearoom, Windsor Road, Runnymede, Egham, Surrey. Open May to September, 8.30am-5.30pm; October, 9am-4.30pm; November and December, 9am-4pm. Closed Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Tel: 01784 477110.

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine September 2011

The French Tarte, Surbiton

The low-down
Opened in January by husband and wife team Sarah and Eric Guignard, who run The French Table restaurant next door, The French Tarte is a beautiful boulangerie/patisserie that brings a slice of French life into the heart of Surbiton.

Best Table
If it’s sunny, then you can sit outside and pretend you’re in Paris; plus, Maple Road is the perfect place to people watch! Soak up the late summer warmth with a coffee, a book and a mouthwatering cake, just a short walk from the international coffee chains offering tasteless muffins.

The verdict
Owners Sarah and Eric give a warm welcome, chatting to people as they pass through the café. The waitress was also friendly and pointed out that the strawberry tarts are one of the most popular cakes at the weekend. I’ll be back again soon!

• The French Tarte, 83 Maple Road, Surbiton, Surrey KT6 4AW. Open Tuesday to Friday, 8am to 7pm; Saturday and Sunday, 9am to 5pm. Closed on Mondays. Tel: 0208 399 1123. For more details, see www.thefrenchtable.co.uk.

Louise Johncox’s parents, Peter and Frankie Johncox, ran Peter’s tea shop in Weybridge from 1958 until 2000 when they retired. Her grandparents also ran two tea shops so there is baking in the genes! Louise is now writing a book about her parents’ tea shop, with the working title of The Baker’s Daughter (see www.louisejohncox.com/index.htm).

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Originally published in Surrey Life magazine August 2008

10 of the best tea shops in Surrey

There's little more delightful than venturing out into the green Surrey countryside for a cream tea - and who better to tell us where to do just that than MARK DAVISON of Surrey Mirror 'Time for Tea' fame? Here, he picks out his favourites

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Watts Gallery Tea Room, Compton, near Guildford
Tel: 01483 811030

If, like me, you go crazy over Welsh rarebits, pop into the tea room here in Compton, near Guildford, housed in premises that used to be an old barn.

In the tea shop, a dozen tables are covered by floral plastic tablecloths. Sitting at them when I called were people of all ages. It was abuzz. How did they know such an isolated place existed? Obviously, they were regulars.

The tea shop is famous for its Welsh rarebits and I quickly spotted them on the menu when I visited. There were buck rarebits on the menu, too, and a "buck and bacon" variety. Despite my rarebit treat, I couldn't leave without sampling a fat chunk of chocolate cake, washed down with another cuppa from the old teapot.

Do combine your visit with a tour of the Watts Gallery next door. Soon to close for a multi-million pound refurbishment, the gallery contains an amazing collection of works by the painter George Frederick Watts.

Hasketts, South Street, Dorking
Tel: 01306 885833

A fine little establishment to visit when strolling around the town associated with the ancient breed of cocks with five toes!

Whether you're a "five toed-'un" - you hail from Dorking - or not, this is the place to indulge in a traditional cream tea washed down with some rather unusual varieties of tea, including one called Gunpowder!

The tea shop is open all day and while sipping your beverage and resting your weary legs after traipsing around the antiques shops - or Waitrose - you can enjoy a blast from the past by studying the wartime posters on the wall. This tea shop has come top in many a tea trade competition.

Woody's
(since moved from Reigate High Street to Reigate Garden Centre)

This is a refreshing place to visit, not least because, in a town dominated by large coffee and restaurant chains, it is a rare independent. Run by Karen and Andy Wood, helped by their sons Sam and Baz and a full-time chef, this modern caf is a perfect place to enjoy a fruit smoothie and a scrumptious butterscotch and walnut tart.

Few places offer butterscotch tarts to the recipe and standard that lured children to school halls for dinner in the past. I once tried to make my own butterscotch tart. It failed miserably and not even the starlings in the garden would touch it...

A baker's in Leatherhead used to sell them and a woman purporting to be an ex-pat in Australia once rang up the baker for the recipe so she could be reminded of her days in England. The baker reluctantly turned down her plea, dialled 1471 and was alarmed to find she was ringing from just down the road in Guildford and was, no doubt, trying to steal the recipe!

Pennyhill Park, London Road, Bagshot
Tel: 01276 471774

Created in 1849, this five-star Manor House with spa, at Bagshot, near Camberley, boasts 123 luxury bedrooms and suites, all individually designed. But it is also the place to go for tea with friends you want to impress.

The rich and famous wander through the lounges while you indulge in a "high-tea" served on a three-tier plate. It is essential to raise one's little finger when sipping Earl Grey here.

In spring, the beds of daffodils and tulips are a picture. But don't forget your wallet. Fortunately, on my visit, it was my friend who paid...

Brockham Parish Church, Brockham Green

Every Sunday afternoon, tables and chairs are laid out on the church lawn at Brockham Parish Church, Brockham Green, and dozens of visitors can be seen sitting around, chatting quietly while admiring the views of the old cottages and houses on the picturesque green, set against the backdrop of the chalk hills of the North Downs.

This is another summer treat, with the teas being organised by bands of volunteers. On one occasion when I called, the local branch of the National Childbirth Trust were industriously putting out platefuls of home-made flapjacks, gateaux, scones and cornflake crunches. The cost of the teas is much less than at a tea shop and the charities benefit from the proceeds.

On my last visit, the Brockham Toddler Group and Baby Group had laid on the refreshments. On that occasion, there was a little muddle over the scones. No one had thought to bring any cream but it certainly didn't spoil the afternoon and I went up for seconds. So did my elderly mum! Teas are served from 2.30pm to 5pm outside of winter.

Fanny's Farm Shop, Markedge Lane, Merstham
Tel: 01737 554444

When I began writing my weekly tea column eight years ago, this was my first port of call. I was in for a shock for while sampling a cream tea in the sunshine, something wet came into contact with my elbow. It was the snout of a Vietnamese pot-bellied pig.

Since that time, I have been back for tea on numerous occasions with friends. They love the "higgledy-piggledy" surroundings and the fact that there is no on-line electricity and a generator has to be used.

Yes, there are a few cobwebs here and there, but when you are sitting in a darkened corner by candlelight listening to a customer tinkling away on the piano near the cakes counter, while outside the rain is pattering down, you know this is heaven.

Fanny Maiklem, a larger-than-life character, has run the farmshop for nigh on 30 years. Now, it is the must-see place for visitors on any day of the week. In recent times, Fanny has branched out and a treehouse tea room has been added. Mind you, booking for a place in there is essential.

Abinger Hammer Tea Room, A25, between Guildford and Dorking
Tel: 01306 730701

This is a little tea room in the living room of a cottage adjoining the post office stores in pretty Abinger Hammer. The shopkeeper and owner pops in to take orders and you may have to wait a little while if the shop is busy.

But this is just like being on holiday. There's no rush, and usually no queue either. Just sit at the table overlooking the tranquil village green where the annual Teddy Bears Picnic is held and where, every fine summer's day, youngsters fish in the Tillingbourne stream while their mums lay out a tartan rug for a picnic.

Cyclists cherish this refreshment stop. I called there with friends and the helpful staff knocked up a full English breakfast even though we didn't see it on the menu. It was even brought to us in the garden adjoining.

Whitehall, Cheam
Tel: 0208 643 1236

This historic mansion, with its centuries-old rooms, paintings and exhibits, is well worth stopping off at - for on a day of clement weather, you can have tea or morning coffee in the garden at the rear. There, it is hard to believe that you are in a suburb of metropolitan Surrey with red double-decker buses passing by outside every few minutes en route to Sutton or Kingston.

When I visited, I enjoyed an afternoon having a leisurely pot of tea and Victoria sponge cake before strolling around the house, learning about places like the nearby 16th century Nonsuch Palace, nothing of which now remains.

Whitehall is an attractive weather-boarded house in the heart of the Cheam Village conservation area. The building has stood on this site since about 1500, and opened to the public in 1978. It was originally a timber-framed wattle and daub building. The 18th century weather-boarding conceals several centuries of additions, including a 16th century staircase tower. The orange and apricot loaf cake was out of this world when I called in for tea.

Pembroke Lodge, Richmond Park, Richmond
Tel: 0208 948 3209

In this spectacular park, full of deer, bracken and park wardens, there stands atop the hill just outside Richmond the great mansion, Pembroke Lodge. The house was built as a hunting lodge for George II by the architect Roger Morris shortly after his accession to the throne in 1727. Queen Caroline, consort of George II, stayed there frequently. On her death in 1737, the lodge passed to Robert Walpole, first Baron Walpole, the son of the Prime Minister. After his death, it came to Queen Caroline's daughter, Princess Amelia, in 1751.

These days, it is a wonderful venue for wedding receptions, functions - and a cream tea. The views from the tea lounge and the patio are superb. Even the staff were in awe of a terrific sunset the other day.

Be prepared for some noisy interruptions at this heavenly oasis. The park is home to hundreds of noisy, squawking green parakeets, which are now resident in other parts of Surrey, too. It may be helpful to know a little Polish or Slovak at the counter.

Cherkley Court
(since closed)

Opened to the public in the spring of 2007, the bright and breezy Orangery tea room commands fine views from its patio of the rolling Surrey countryside. Surrounded by the newly restored gardens, which include a wonderful grotto, it is one of my favourite spots to enjoy a cup of tea while reading a Sunday newspaper outside in the sunshine.

As well as a selection of gooey sponge cakes, the butternut squash soup, when available, is particularly mouth-watering.

The Victorian mansion, close to Tyrell's Wood golf course, is owned by the Beaverbrook Trust and was home to the Beaverbrook family for many years. I was secretly hoping not too many people would get to hear of my favourite oasis, but now the word's out.

Highly commended:

Red Barn at Blindley Heath, near Lingfield
Tel: 01342 830820

My Top 10 should also include the newly-restored Red Barn public house at Blindley Heath, near Lingfield, which has a superb tea shop just opened, complete with an Aga stove for the cooking of brunches. You can sit in the peaceful garden outside with a plate of delicious cakes and a pot of tea. There's now a farm shop, too, which sells vegetables as well as cakes and local produce. I particularly enjoyed my visit there recently.

About the writer

MARK DAVISON has been a journalist on the Surrey Mirror and Dorking and Leatherhead Advertisers for the past 25 years and is famous across the county for his popular Time For Tea column.

Every week, he has the enviable task of "motoring" around the county and sniffing out the best places for a cuppa and a cake, and his weekly instalment is always much anticipated.

Here in Surrey, we are blessed with a wonderful selection of tea rooms in our historic towns and villages - and where better to take friends when they are staying with you? Especially if your guests are from abroad and you want to give them a taste of our rural charms!

Two years ago, the Observer newspaper praised the column and carried a full-page article describing Mark's trail and the whimsical observations he weaves into his weekly offerings.

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