Hermaness 'the edge of the world'

6th August 2010 20:51:51

Walking in Shetland is an absolute joy.  Freedom to roam, breathtaking scenery and the ability to spend all day on your own without seeing a soul - paradise!

Hermaness is a National Nature Reserve situated on the most northerly inhabited island in Britain - Unst.  The day we visited was mild - perfect for walking, however, we always pack our wet weather gear - just in case.  Shetland really is 4 seasons in one day.  It's never boring but it pays to be prepared!

To reach Unst from mainland Shetland, you have to catch the ferry to the island of Yell and then another ferry to Unst.  In peak season (May-September) it might be advisable to book.  The ferries are modern and frequent.  The trip across on the two ferries should take just over an hour.

Prior to starting the walk we had a look in the Visitor Centre (and Ranger HQ) situated in the Shore Station at Burrafirth (located near the start of the walk).  There's a natural history exhibition to view, and if you're lucky you might get a pack of free postcards as I did - a gift from the Ranger!

The walk is circular (my favourite!) and takes about 3 hours; longer if you decide to take a detour or dawdle as we always do.  Much of the walk is boarded - handy as a large percentage of the  moorland is blanket bog (moorland lochs are a favourite habitat for elegant Red-throated Divers). The deep peat holds over 7,000 years of plant history in its layers and is an internationally rare habitat.  

A top tip - if you do decide to venture over to Hermaness, make sure you bring sturdy waterproof shoes - some of the walk is without boards and your feet may get quite sodden. I've fallen into a few Shetland bogs since living here and had a heck of a job to get out.  Hubby has nicknamed me boggy-blog pants.  Nice! 

The sheer cliffs and stacks are littered with birds.  'Littered' is perhaps the only way to decribe the spectacular phenomena of over 100,000 breeding sea birds (no, I didn't count them all!).  An awesome sight (and smell!) for even the most world weary.  Gliding fulmars, diving gannets, amongst others - displayed aerial acrobatics over the swirling-whirling Atlantic ocean; their raucous sounds drowning out our conversation. Transfixed, we watched for quite some time.

We spied the Lighthouse - a tiny principality on Muckle Flugga This large rock is part of a group of stacks and skerries.  The most northerly in the group is called Out Stack - the most northerly extremity of the British Isles. 

Thomas and David Stevenson designed (Engineers) Muckle Flugga Lighthouse.  It was completed in 1858 (automated 1995).  Robert Louis Stevenson and his father, Thomas, visited Unst in 1869, and it's believed that Robert based his novel 'Treasure Island' on Unst.  This tale may be folklore, however, the stories of wild winter gales and the swelling ocean breaking over the Lighthouse is true enough!  Thank goodness the foundations are sunk 3 metres deep into the rock - it really has stood the test of time and Shetland weather!

As we neared the end of the walk, sea mist enveloped rugged cliffs, cotton grass bowed to the pirates of the sky - Great Skuas, and sounds of birdlife began to fade.  I truly felt I had visited 'the edge of the world'

To read more about me and Shetland - www.shetlandmylove.blogspot.com

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