Bowdon’s newest restaurant, Borage, offers a taste of the Med. Janet Reeder paid a visit.
I have such admiration for those who have the courage to live their dream and open their own restaurant.
It’s such a complex undertaking juggling the demands of the kitchen, staff and budgets, so I am full of good wishes for Borage, which is part of the revitalisation the Vicarage Road area of Bowdon.
‘Modernist European cuisine’ is the theme of this restaurant which was opened a few months ago by Mariusz Dobies, the former executive chef at Michael Caines in Manchester, and Veronika Janusova, on the site of the former Coffee and Kitchen cafe.
Named after the Mediterranean herb, borage, the restaurant is casual in feel which is the perfect vibe you want from a neighbourhood dining room with the pleasing touch of starched white tablecloths, which takes it a notch above those venues who leave their tables unadorned!
We were guided to the upstairs dining room, which although attractive was almost empty, which made us feel a little cut off, especially as we could hear jolly laughter emanating from the main restaurant on the ground floor. Let’s hope that the pleasant room we dined in is normally packed.
Reading somewhere that this was a ‘fine dining’ establishment I feared I’d be heading homeward a little bit hungry but I am pleased to report the portions are ample.
Enjoyable starters of goats’ cheese with fig and beetroot with the pleasurable crunch of savoury granola, £7, quail accompanied by lovage, potato and shallot and apple, £8, were very prettily presented on artisan pottery. Mains of stone bass lobster, tomato tortellini, courgette, scallop, prawn, £19, and a tomato tart, £14, which featured a puff pastry top, diced tomatoes and courgettes, were accompanied by dollops of ricotta. There was plenty of flavour but some elements seemed a little heavy-handed; my friend would have preferred her pasta to be a bit thinner. Sides of a delicious truffle mash and salad were enjoyable but the main courses were more than enough to satisfy our appetites.
Time for dessert. We found room to sample a meringue with peaches and cream, £5, and a well-selected plate of artisan cheeses. We finished off our delicious Picpoul de Pinet - Coteaux du Languedoc, £25, from an enticing list.
There are many new restaurants opening around the Altrincham area at the moment, making the area something of a culinary destination. If you’re in the area you might wish to support this plucky independent.
7 Vale View, Vale, Vicarage Lane, Bowdon, WA14 3BD 0161 929 4775
