Food review - Cholmondeley Arms, Cholmondeley, near Malpas

Dining area at the Cholmondeley Arms, near Malpas

Dining area at the Cholmondeley Arms, near Malpas - Credit: not Archant

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Venue

Quintessential English pub in a Victorian schoolhouse on Lord Cholmondeley’s estate.

Menu

Hearty English fare with an eye to tradition but a good dose of 21st century savvy. We tried starters of crispy spiced cauliflower with a broad bean, chickpea and pearl barley risotto (£6.45), and mushrooms with white wine cream and shallots on granary toast (£5.75) - both tasty and substantial. A main of wild boar and pheasant faggots with a squash, chorizo and lentil cassoulet (£15.95) was bold, comfort food, as was a lamb shank with roast potatoes and red cabbage (£16.95). Barely room for a pud, yet the rhubarb and almond sponge with stem ginger custard (£5.50) proved to be worth loosening the belt for.

Decor and ambience

High ceilings, lots of brick and wood, dark furniture, quirky decor mingling with old schoolhouse motifs; it looks exactly like what it is: a school turned into a pub.

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Service

Order at the bar, but waiting staff efficient.

Cost

Three courses for two people: around £65 plus drinks. Cholmondeley Arms, l Wrenbury Road, Cholmondeley, near Malpas, SY14 8HN

01829 720300

cholmondeleyarms.co.uk

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