THE call of the sea beckoned this month when I steered a course to visit a restaurant with panoramic views of the Thames estuary

THE call of the sea beckoned this month when I steered a course to visit a restaurant with panoramic views of the Thames estuary. The Roslin Beach Hotel is on the promenade at Southend with a large terrace, sheltered by glass panels, which stretches for almost the entire length of its frontage. The parasolled terrace is ideal for dining on warmer days and behind it is a large conservatory with a comfortable bar area offering uninterrupted views of the watery landscape beyond. I chose to spend a Friday lunchtime there and when I arrived just before 1pm it was full of ladies lunching, businessmen enjoying a welcome break and couples dining while taking in the delightful view.

There were plenty of efficient, friendly staff on hand to show me to a table and a drink arrived seconds later with warmed breads while I perused the menu. The d�cor is refreshingly calming, featuring cream, marbled wallpaper, with driftwood sculptures and natural wood flooring. Crisp linen cloths and cream wicker high-backed chairs complete the look.

The menu is well laid out with a choice of dishes from the grill, fish and meat, a good selection of tempting salads plus vegetarian options. To begin I was almost swayed to try the clam and mussel broth with pearl barley, but in the end it was the smoked duck breast with Monmouthshire ham and gooseberry relish which won me over. A liberal portion served with fresh rocket and hidden beneath the leaves was the relish – a meritorious accompaniment to the smokey slivers of duck breast and ham, along with my crisp glass of pinot grigio.

The place to beThe restaurant was buzzing with activity, yet space between the tables allowed for privacy, it certainly seemed the place to be in Southend on a Friday lunchtime. It’s just what this seaside town needs, a smart yet friendly place to meet and dine for the more discerning diner.

Nothing was left of the starter when my plate was cleared and I looked forward to the Shetland salmon fishcakes with a sweet chilli dip for my main course, which you can order as a starter too if you wish.

I didn’t have to wait long, as three fishcakes, fresh salad leaves and plenty of sweet, sticky dip, with just the right amount of heat to intensify the flavours, arrived – the crisp fishcakes filled with creamy mash and pink salmon pieces.

Due to my poor time management I’d already decided I’d have to make reference only to the dessert menu, however, once I’d spotted sticky toffee pudding with hot toffee sauce and clotted cream – I was sunk! It was an individual sponge pudding so light it tasted as if an angel herself had whisked it and the sweet, hot toffee came in its own china jug with a dollop of clotted cream. It was pure heaven and even worth missing a deadline or two for.

Table talk with diner, Derek MacDonald and his friends Paul Griffin and Paul Weeton

What do you do?I’m a property developer.

What did you choose from the menu? Halibut steak, lobster butter and vanilla foam.

How did you discover the Roslin?I’m local and it gets good reviews.

Describe your dining experience in three words: Very nice indeed.

Rate the value for money available:I think it’s good and on a par with other restaurants around.

Would you come again?Yes, indeed. In fact, I do regularly. In a week I probably visit the restaurant at least three times.

What was the best part of your meal? The food and friendly staff always make a visit here an enjoyable experience.

Useful to knowThe total bill came to �31.63 for three courses including a 10% service charge and a glass of pinot grigio.

This is an independent review, featuring a restaurant selected and experienced by our food and wine editor. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.

Book a tableThe Roslin Beach Hotel RestaurantThorpe EsplanadeThorpe BaySS1 3BG01702 586375

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