Digest this mini-review in 60 seconds

Venue

Immense Bavarian/Bohemian-style beer house and eaterie, just down the road from the Midland Hotel, which used to have its own German restaurant...until the First World War happened.

Menu

Hearty mid-European fare - good ballast for beers, star of which is fresh, unpasteurised Pilsner Urquell, brewed in Czech Republic. A starter of bratwurst and kraut (£5) was delicious smoky sausage, red cabbage, the sweetest of pickled cabbage and mild mustard. Ham and Alpine cheese croquettes (£4.50) were lush little flavour balls. A main of beef sauerbraten (£16) was a tower of friable meat on a potato rosti, swimming in an intense red wine sauce. My companion’s cheeseburger (£9) was a top bun, even in these burger-crazy times. Banana and butterscotch waffle with candied pecans (£7.50) was tasty and enough for two.

Decor and ambience

Cavernous woody interior with large tables..think Oktoberfest, but classier.

Service

Very friendly and attentive.

Cost

Three courses and drinks for two: less than £90.

Albert’s Schloss, 27 Peter Street, Manchester M2 5QR

0161 833 4040

albertsschloss.co.uk

Louise Allen-Taylor