Food review - Margao, Knutsford

on the boil Meal in a minute

on the boil Meal in a minute - Credit: Archant

A quick review of King Street’s Indian restaurant.

Background: Ordering in from a curry house becomes a loyalty game. Once you stumble across a dependable local Indian with first-rate food, it’s hard to risk dabbling in a competitor’s menu. Will the poppadums be as crunchy? Will the curry be daubed in oil? Will the naan flop? But where there’s risk there’s reward, and this little find in Knutsford does a good job of luring you in. It ran a steady takeaway service during lockdown; now the tables are relaid and the restaurant thrums once again.

The food: All the classics are on the menu but there’s also a focus on southern Indian street food (and there’s not many places in Cheshire you can pick up an authentic dosa). Our tip? Go for the meat thali – a spicy smorgasbord of Indian small plates you can share or scoop up alone with pillowy naans. Masala fish was delicately spiced; crisp onion bhaji were a step up from your average takeaway; fragrant chicken lollipops were spicy and sticky. You might feel as if you’re cheating on your favourite curry house, but there’s never been a better time to explore our county’s foodie scene while it needs us the most.

Margao, 89 King Street, Knutsford, WA16 6EQ

margao.co.uk

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