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Venue: Traditional English pub, formerly the village post office, in a grade II listed building in a hamlet south of Warrington, a mile from the Lewis Carroll Centre at Daresbury. Under new management as of a few months ago.

Menu: Timeless pub staples like burger, scampi, steaks - but the Hatton’s speciality is pies. A starter of chicken liver parfait (£6.50) was great, and a smoked haddock Scotch egg (£7.95) was a fishy ball swimming in a lush hollandaise. A main of cod fillet with samphire and new potatoes (£14.95) was very good but braised beef bourguignon with dripping mash was disappointing: nice rich sauce but slightly unyielding meat. Puds of Hatton mess and panettone bread and butter pudding were £5.95 and very pleasant .

Ambience: Woody, historic home from home. What’s not to like?

Service: Friendly. Side dishes arrived late but were knocked off the bill without demur.

Cost: Three courses for two people, less than £80.

The Hatton Arms, Hatton Lane, Hatton, Warrington, WA4 4DB, 01925 730314

www.hattonarms.co.uk