Julian Rees Visits China Orchids Restaurant, Cullompton, Devon - Restaurant Review

Julian Rees visits Robby Ho's China Orchids restaurant in Cullompton, Devon and gets slain by the Green Dragon.

Julian Rees visits Robby Ho's China Orchids restaurant in Cullompton and gets slain by the Green Dragon.

Having 5,000 years of history to look back upon, the debate over China’s national flower remains unsettled. OK, so you were probably blissfully unaware of this fact as we all take the English rose for granted, and you probably don’t give it a second thought, but China Orchids restaurant is certainly testament to China’s very visual floral history.

The restaurant is split into three dining rooms: the Peony, the Orchid and the Chrysanthemum, each of whose walls are hand-decorated as well as hosting many delicate and precious blooms. The separate bar area, clad in bamboo, supplies a different ambience for pre- and after-dinner drinks away from the dining area.

Considering the building is Grade II Listed, proprietor Robby Ho has created a contemporary and relaxing environment in the former High Street caf� and guest house.

The restaurant has been open for 6 1/2 years and attracts diners from all over the county. Originally trained as an engineer, Robby returned to catering 12 years ago to follow in his father’s footsteps and to indulge his wife’s love of cooking.

This evening we were to be treated to the Christmas special set meal for two. Not being a common Chinese ingredient, the turkey did, however, not disappoint.

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We started with an assortment of hors d’oeuvres - mainly seafood, the restaurant’s extensive speciality - accompanied by quite the most ornately carved ‘carrot-fish’, fashioned, I’m told, in mere minutes by the nimble-fingered chef.

Following this course was my must-have favourite, crispy duck. In my opinion every trip to a Chinese restaurant should include this and often it’s the measure of the meal, and in this case the homemade hoi sin puts China Orchids amongst my local favourites.

For main course came sizzling turkey in black pepper sauce, pork in sweet soy, and king prawns in a bird’s nest, this time all overlooked by an even more exquisite ‘carrot-eagle’! The turkey was cooked to perfection and as I sat, under the watchful eye of a large, grinning, be-tinselled Buddha, I felt the first tinge of Christmas.

To celebrate we finished off in the traditional way with banana fritters followed by a shot of finest genuine Chinese liqueur locally known as the Green Dragon.

 

Why not tell us about your favourite chinese restaurant in the comments box at the bottom of this article...

 

The service was great, the waitresses friendly and helpful, and Robby’s Green Dragon frighteningly intoxicating!

JULIAN REES

China Orchids Restaurant

20 High Street

Cullompton

EX15 1JJ

01884 33336

www.chinaorchids.com

Opening Hours

Monday-Thursday:"5.30pm-11pm

Friday and Saturday:"5.30pm -11.30pm

Sunday: Buffet Lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, Evening 6.00pm-10.30pm

Proprietor: Robby Ho

Head Chef: Poh Woo

Sample Menu

Specialising in Cantonese, Peking & Szechuan Cuisine

Starters

Aassorted hors d’oeuvres

Cantonese beef dumpling with green pepper

Main Courses

Stir-fried scallops with mange-tout served in a bird’s nest

Peking-style chicken with chilli and sweet bean sauce

Desserts

Mango Melba

Cassis Royale

In your area you could try:

Yum Sing, Babbacombe Road, Torquay. 01803 293314

The Royal Garden, St Andrew’s Cross, Plymouth. 01752 313138

Fullam Restaurant, Tuly Street, Barnstaple. 01271 328 882

Bird’s Nest Restaurant, Barley Market Street, Tavistock. 01822 610611

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