La Boheme, 3 Mill Lane, Heatley, Lymm. 01925 753657, www.laboheme.co.uk

It's nice when you see someone happy in their work, and the waiter's rendition of 'Oh happy day' and 'Everybody salsa' added to the jovial Sunday lunch atmosphere at La Boheme in Lymm.

The French-influenced family-owned restaurant is lead by Olivier Troalen, the head chef, with his wife Adele, ably supported by an experienced team in both the kitchen and the front of house.

We were a tad late, having driven right past the restaurant because the sign had blown down in gales the previous week. Because of this, and feeling rather hungry, we opted to go straight to our table rather than peruse the menu over pre-lunch drinks in the bar.

We were one of the first to be seated in the newly decorated light and airy restaurant and although it soon filled with other diners, it never felt cramped or overly noisy, even with the waiter's singing. I started with the soup of the day, which was tomato and red pepper. I hate to grumble so early in a review but if I found fault with any of the courses it was this one.

With each mouthful I was determined to like it because I'm a huge soup fan and I hate a meal to fall at the first hurdle, but there was just something about it that left me disappointed. Nigel's choice was Beignet D'Haddock Fume, strips of deep fried battered haddock served with a sweet chilli and ginger dressing. By contrast to the soup, this starter was perfect with the fish deliciously light and the sauce a perfect compliment.

My main course made up for the disappointing start. Paupiette De Porc Aux Fruits was a pork fillet filled with aromatic fruit, wrapped in smoked bacon and served with deep fried cubed potatoes, finished with an apple, thyme and calvados jus.

The sweetness of the fruit filling and the apple jus beautifully balanced the tender pork and the cubed potatoes were done to perfection, crispy on the outside but soft and fluffy inside.

Nigel's choice was the Balottine de Faisan, sliced, boneless pheasant breast stuffed with fruit and pistachio with a port and cranberry sauce served with dauphinoise potatoes and mixed vegetables.

Once more the fruit was the perfect foil for the pheasant, which was tender and tasty without being overly 'gamey'. After gingerly picking out some shot, the verdict was: 'Nice meal, but you have to chew carefully.'

His choice of dessert was Gateaux Aux Fromage, homemade Bailey's cheesecake garnished with a coffee crme anglaise that simply melted in the mouth.

And I simply had to go for the bread and butter pudding after the menu said: 'Due to popular demand. My way of making bread and butter pudding served with a creamy toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream'. It looked a bit like a small suet pudding but was deliciously sweet and I could understand why it was highly prized.

We accompanied the meal with glasses of unoaked La Vedette Chardonnay, fresh and crisp and priced at �3 for a small glass and �4.25 for a larger one. A cup of filter coffee cost �2 and came with a chocolate truffle.

The bill came to a respectable �39.60. The occasional song is free of charge.

Gillian

La Boheme, 3 Mill Lane, Heatley, Lymm. 01925 753657, www.laboheme.co.uk