There's something about Savoro. A Barnet landmark puts on an impressive performance for one of our food and drink editors, Richard Cawthorne. Read his review here...

Lunch at Savoro, Barnet

A Barnet landmark puts on an impressive performance for food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne.

About the restaurantElegant is how Savoro describes itself and it’s hard to disagree. Two years after my first visit, this ‘restaurant with rooms’ in a mews off Barnet High Street still looks brand new despite a history which has seen the building serve variously as an inn, boat house, bakery and traditional tea shop.

Atmosphere and decorSavoro may be one of Hertfordshire’s oldest restaurants but is bang up to date with its contemporary decor, with much use of glass and mirrors and warm earthy colours. Tables are properly dressed, chairs comfortable and it’s quiet and relaxing.

Service Our waiter made no secret of his desire to ensure we had a good time. Bread and olives appeared as we sat down and we were treated to polite visits during the meal to find out if all was well.

The menuMy reservations about prix fixe menus were not needed thanks to an imaginative choice of dishes. Savoro’s set lunch offers two courses at �10.95 or �13.95 with a glass of house wine. The choice of five starters and five mains was more than adequate.

To startThe warm goat’s cheese toast with Braeburn jelly, dressed leaves and balsamic glaze was properly flavourful and did a perfect job of setting up the taste buds for what was to follow. The chicken liver and port parfait with Melba toast and red onion marmalade was pronounced equally delicious. Both dishes were also artistically presented.

Main coursesA generous chunk of pan-fried salmon served plain with new potatoes, mange-tout, broccoli and green beans simply reinforced our favourable first impressions. Across the table, the marinated lamb was going down well, having arrived with ‘fine fries’, a mixed salad and a delicate tzatziki.

DessertsA tempting selection at �5 each was regretfully refused. Choices included passion fruit creme brulee, treacle tart, or ice creams ranging from bourbon vanilla via coffee and tobacco to prune and armagnac.

The experienceThe big three of eating out – good food, good service and pleasant surroundings – were all met and the set menu was a bargain.

This is an independent review featuring a restaurant selected and experienced by the writer. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.

BOOK A TABLE

Savoro206 High StreetBarnet EN5 5SZ020 8449 9888www.savoro.co.uk

The cost of this lunch was �30.69 including a 10% optional service charge.

3 of a kind

NolitaLarge, lavish and luxurious Italian restaurant with extensive menu, lunch club and regular special eventsGreat North RoadBrookman’s Park AL9 6NA01707 644 858www.nolitarestaurant.co.uk

RedcoatsConverted farmhouse hotel with conservatory restaurant and loyal lunch tradeRedcoats Green Hitchin GS4 7JR01438 729500www.redcoats.co.uk

St Michael’s ManorNewly-refurbished restaurant in riverside hotel offering all-day table d’hote and a la carte menusFishpool StreetSt Albans AL3 4RY01727 864444www.stmichaelsmanor.com