Restaurant review - Kaleido, Cathedral Gardens, Manchester

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KaleidoCathedral GardensManchester M4 3BG0161 871 8160kaleidorestaurant.co.uk

Style of venueThe quintessence of ‘New Manchester’, perched on the fifth floor of Ian Simpson’s Urbis, once the Museum of the City (few got the idea) and now the National Football Museum. Acres of metal and glass, which means that, with the right table, you look down on a cityscape and feel a little like Spiderman surveying his terrain.

D�corDark wood tables, white padded leather chairs, and some pretty white alcoves at one end of the restaurant. A staircase sweeps up to a modernist yet cosy bar area where the view is even better.

On the menuStarter of kedgeree (�6.50) came in the form of three crispy flavoursome balls with curry oil, cress and a soft boiled egg. Very nicely done. The crab fritters with wasabi mayo (�7.50) was scrumptious: perfectly crisp outer layer and soft fishy/potato middle that melted in the mouth.

As for mains, a hake fillet with golden beet and radish salad (�14.25) was excellent. Less kudos, though for Lancashire hot pot (�16.75); prettily presented but too arty. I would have preferred a traditional big bowl. Star of the show was the dessert: strawberry knickerbockerglory (�7.50) with punchy strawberry sorbet, smooth ice cream and a delicious sesame and black pepper tuile. A chocolate and hazelnut opera (�7.25) was a delightul combo of flavours and textures - think of a soft nougat that’s almost like ice cream.

AmbienceThis has always been a very cool space and now the food is pretty special too. Go and enjoy it.

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ServiceAttentive, friendly, but not intrusive.

CostThree courses each, splendid artisan breads, a few glasses of wine and coffees came to �110, which included a ten per cent service charge our charming waitress stressed was optional.

Louise Allen-Taylor

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