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Great British Life: The White Horse pub restaurant, HendrerwyddThe White Horse pub restaurant, Hendrerwydd (Image: not Archant)

Venue

Sixteenth century inn down narrow lanes in a small hamlet between Denbigh and Ruthin with views of the Clwydian Range. A lovely drive from Cheshire.

Menu

Modern British, substantial dishes using local seasonal produce, plus baguettes which punters rave about. I tried three very accomplished courses. Buffalo mozzarella came with ripe black figs, a crisp and peppery wild rocket, toasted pine nuts and a pleasingly runny and aromatic basil pesto (£6). A main of pan fried crispy skinned duck breast was not, as presented, very crispy, but was a good combination of smoky, earthy, ripe flavours with mounds of savoy cabbage, smoked bacon, broccoli, orange and apple puree, a red wine sauce and a huge bowl of roasted carrots on the side (£15.95). Pud was a belter: banana fritters with extremely crunchy honeycomb, banana ice cream, little grains of bee pollen and a puddle of golden syrup (£5.50)

Decor and ambience

Olde worlde pub with modern splashes of colour. Low ceilings, roaring fires, shuttered windows, old wooden furniture, gnarled timbers.

Service

Excellent

Cost

Three courses for two people plus a couple of drinks, would be a little over £60.

The White Horse Restaurant, Hendrerwydd, Denbighshire, LL16 4LL

01824 790218

www.whitehorserestaurant.co.uk