Summer is the perfect time to experiment with dishes that make the vegetable the star. SUSAN CLARK picks her favourite veggie recipes from a brand new cook book
Former head chef at the Riverford Farm field kitchen, Devon chef Jane Baxter is one of the four chefs on the Gastrobus on our cover and also the co-author of a new veggie cookbook called LEON Fast Vegetarian.
The idea is that just because you are veggie, you should’t have to slave over a hot stove any longer than the meat eaters – in other words, there will be times you just need a quick but delicious meal.
This new vegetarian cook book is a collaboration between Henry Dimbley, co-founder of the LEON chain of vegetarian restaurants and Devon-based chef Jane. Henry - who has himself recently been advising the Government on new guidlines for healthier school meals - describes Jane as “probably the greatest vegetable cook in Britain.” So I think we can safely say these two know their veg!
And in this special selection of summer veggie dishes taken from their new book, there’s not a pasta shell in sight which will be a welcome change for all vegetarians who are sick of risotto being the only meat-free meal choice when they eat out.
This is a family-friendly cook book and if you like your receipes with bags of personality, this book is a great addition to your culinary library.
Baked Spinach, Squash & Blue Cheese
Serves 4 to 6
400g squash, peeled and
cut into 1–2cm dice
1 tablespoon olive oil
6 fresh sage leaves, shredded
300g spinach
1 egg
100ml double cream
75g blue cheese (such as
Gorgonzola), crumbled
salt and freshly ground
black pepper
40g toasted walnuts, chopped
1. Heat the oven to 200ÅãC/400ÅãF/gas mark 6.
Put the squash into a roasting tray and toss
with the oil and sage. Roast in the oven for
20–30 minutes, until tender.
2. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water
to the boil. Add the spinach and blanch for
30 seconds, then drain and refresh under cold
water. Drain again and squeeze out any excess
moisture. Chop roughly.
3. Beat the egg with the cream in a mixing bowl
and add the spinach and the crumbled cheese.
Season well.
4. When the squash is cooked, add it to the spinach
mixture and transfer it all to a baking dish.
5. Lower the oven temperature to 140ÅãC/275ÅãF/
gas mark 1 and bake for around 20–30 minutes,
or until almost firm to the touch but still with a
slight wobble.
6. When ready, sprinkle with the walnuts and serve.
tips
* This makes a great filling
for a pasty, or is equally
good cooked on a puff
pastry base, or baked on
bruschetta.
* Spiced pecans are a lovely
alternative to walnuts –
toss the nuts in a little
oil and sprinkle with salt
and cayenne pepper, then
cook in a preheated oven,
180ÅãC/350ÅãF/gas mark 4
for 5 minutes. This same
method can be used to
liven up any tired nut.
Leeks Vinaigrette
Serves 4
The leeks in this recipe can either be cooked in boiling salted water or blanched and grilled.
We have suggested a couple of different dressings below, which can also be used with other
grilled vegetables.
6–8 leeks
salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1. Trim the leeks and cut each one down the
middle lengthways to 2cm above the root,
but without cutting it in half. Wash them well
in cold water and drain.
2. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the
leeks and cook them for 5 minutes, until just
tender. Drain well, split each leek in half, then
toss them in the oil and season well.
3. At this point the leeks can either be dressed
with one of the dressings below, or grilled on a
preheated griddle pan (or a barbecue) and then
dressed. For maximum flavour, dress the leeks
while still warm or hot.
* This can also be served with
Basil Dressing (see page 69)
or Red Pepper & Almond
Dressing (see page 224).
Hazelnut Dressing
Serves 4 to 6
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 of a red onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons roasted, skinned and
chopped hazelnuts
1 clove of garlic, crushed
1. Put all the ingredients into a bowl
and whisk together.
2. Drizzle over the leeks.
Egg & Mustard Dressing
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon coarse-grain mustard
2 teaspoons honey
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
1. Put the oil, vinegar, mustard, honey
and parsley into a bowl and mix
together. Season well.
2. Drizzle over the leeks and sprinkle
with the chopped egg.
Lentils with Peas, Broad Beans & Mint
Serves 6 ( as a side )
100g green lentils
(or Puy lentils)
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1 onion, finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
150g shelled broad beans
150g shelled peas
150g sugar snap peas,
trimmed and sliced
1 tablespoon chopped
fresh mint
* If your broad beans are
large it may be necessary
to remove their rubbery
outer skins after blanching.
* Cooked artichoke wedges
can be added with the
peas to make this into a
more substantial dish.
1. Put the lentils into a pan and add cold water
to cover them by about 1cm. Bring to the boil,
then reduce the heat and simmer for about
20 minutes, or until tender. Drain, then drizzle
with olive oil, season well and set aside.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a medium pan, then
add the onion and cook over a medium heat
for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, stir well and
cook for another 2 minutes.
3. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and
cook the broad beans for 2–3 minutes, or until
tender. Drain well and add immediately to the
onion mixture.
4. Now stir in the lentils, peas and sugar snap peas
and cook together over a low heat for 5 minutes.
5. To finish the dish, season well, add lots of
chopped mint and drizzle with good olive oil.
This is great as a side, but equally good to eat on its own on grilled bruschetta
Fried Courgettes
Serves 4
750g courgettes
sunflower oil, for deep-frying
1 tablespoon good-quality
red wine vinegar
2 cloves of garlic, sliced and
cut into very fine spikes
2 red chillies, deseeded and
cut across into fine strips
a small bunch of fresh mint,
leaves picked and cut across
into fine strips
salt and freshly ground
black pepper
* This method can also
be used for aubergines –
remember to salt the
aubergine slices first to
remove any excess moisture.
1. Cut the courgettes across into very thin rounds,
using a mandolin.
2. Put the courgette slices into a bowl of iced water
and leave to soak for about 40 minutes, then
drain and dry well on tea towels.
3. Heat the sunflower oil to 190ÅãC in a large
heavy-based pan and cook the courgettes in
small batches, removing each batch when lightly
browned and draining them on kitchen paper.
4. Spread the cooked courgettes on a large serving
plate and sprinkle with the vinegar. Scatter over
the garlic, chillies and mint, and season well.
In southern Italy the courgettes for this dish are dried outside in the sun before frying, which
makes them very crisp as a result. In the UK that could be a problem and oven-drying does not
create the same effect, so this method, from Jane’s time at The River CafeÅL, relies on very thinly
sliced courgettes.
