Entrepreneurial farmer Annabel Makin-Jones is stepping into her grandfather’s boots and expanding into the mysterious and unique world of Yorkshire Rhubarb working alongside growers in the famous rhubarb triangle
Annabel's grandfather Edmund Makin grew Yorkshire rhubarb in its heyday in the 1950’s when 200 growers in the rhubarb triangle provided 90% of the world’s forced rhubarb. Today, just a handful of growers are left in Yorkshire.
So Annabel is doing her bit to help this traditional Yorkshire crop and its growers thrive.
The future is bright for these vibrant pink spears, the renaissance of the artisan gin industry and demand for rhubarb compotes in yogurts and smoothies, have given this very Yorkshire crop a wider audience and appreciation.
The rhubarb triangle is nine-square-mile area between Wakefield, Morley and Rothwell. From January to March, fuchsia-pink forced rhubarb, prized for its subtle flavour, is picked by hand, by candlelight, so that the delicate stems are not turned green and hard by photosynthesis.
Rhubarb is native to Siberia and likes the cold, the rain and soil rich in nitrogen. All are found in abundance in Yorkshire! Cuttings are taken from mature plants two years earlier, then allowed to mature in fields before they are brought inside for forcing. Because the stems must be removed from the root, the work is still done by hand, a highly labour-intensive process.
Rhubarb, which was one of the only fresh foods available during wartime rationing is now enjoying a revival celebrated by top chefs and home cooks. In 2010, Yorkshire rhubarb was awarded a PDO status, granting it protected status like Parma ham or feta cheese.
'I love rhubarb,' says Annabel. 'it’s synonymous with Yorkshire and it’s tart and sour with a hint of sweetness. It’s versatile, it can pair with sweet or savoury dishes and packs a punch of vibrant flavour at a time of year when there’s very little brightness.
'I love the vivid barbie pink bright colours it produces when cooked. Rhubarb is such fantastic flavour, it works in a range of partnership products, gin, yogurt, it’s a key ingredient for my drinks brand Tame & Wild.'
Annabel’s plans are to create a brand for Yorkshire Rhubarb to compliment her successful 'Annabel’s Deliciously British' brands of berries, jams and honey and this spring, rhubarb and daffodils.
Annabel is committed to sustainable farming practices and she’s a champion of British produce. She’s adopted a zero-waste approach to the farm, ensuring every bit of the crop is used and not wasted.
'I believe Britain produces food and drink to rival any nation. But we need to adopt sustainable practices and champion seasonal crops that thrive in our climate. We farm with nature and are committed to making sustainable decisions from everything from packaging to water usage. The way I farm will have implications for generations to come, and I am determined not to compromise their future.' she says.
Annabel took over the running of her family’s farm 16 years ago and started the strawberry enterprise after graduating from Harper Adams with a degree in Agricultural Marketing. Her vision is to create a number of distinctive 'Deliciously British' brands from native crops on the farm steeped in quality and under pinned by sustainable farming practices.
Annabel’s Yorkshire Rhubarb is sold at all Booths stores and they have shared some recipes using this unique and seasonal crop.
Roast Lamb with Rhubarb Slaw
Serves 6
Prep time 15 min
Cooking time 5 hours (long and slow!)
Ingredients
For the Lamb
2kg Herdwick lamb leg
300g redcurrant jelly
10g mint leaves, chopped
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1/2 lemon, juice only
1/2 tbsp salt
For the Rhubarb Slaw
200g rhubarb
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp red currant jelly
Salt and pepper
2 tbsp pomegranate seeds
5g mint leaves, chopped
Extra mint leaves to garnish
Pre-heat the oven to 100°C (fan) / 200°F / gas mark ½.
For the lamb, mix the redcurrant jelly, mint, fennel seeds, lemon juice and salt in a bowl.
Score the lamb leg in a criss-cross pattern. Spoon the mixture onto the lamb leg. Place in the oven and slow cook for 5 hours.
To make the rhubarb slaw, cut the rhubarb into matchsticks. Place the vinegar, mustard, oil, honey and redcurrant jelly into a bowl and mix well. Season to taste.
Add the chopped rhubarb, pomegranate seeds and mint to the bowl and toss to combine.
Serve the lamb on a platter and garnish with mint leaves. Serve the slow cooked lamb with a side of tangy rhubarb slaw and extra redcurrant jelly.
Rhubarb and Lemon Curd Pots
Ingredients
400g rhubarb, cut into 4cm pieces
20g butter
Zest and juice of 1 orange
75g caster sugar
3tbsp of lemon curd
250g tub of mascarpone cheese
2tsp icing sugar
4 stem ginger biscuits, crushed
Icing sugar for dusting
Pre-heat the oven to 220°c/gas 7.
Place the rhubarb into an ovenproof dish and dot with the butter. Add the orange juice, zest and sugar.
Loosely cover with foil and cook for 10 minutes until just tender then leave to cool. Remove the rhubarb from the juice.
Place the juices into a small pan and bring to the boil. Cook for 1 minute and cool.
Divide the rhubarb between 4 glasses and drizzle over a little of the syrup. In a bowl, mix the mascarpone with the icing sugar. Then with a knife, fold in the lemon curd forming a ripple effect.
Spoon this between your glasses. Finally, top with the crushed biscuits and dust with the icing sugar then serve.
Almond, Plum and Rhubarb Cake (Vegan)
Makes: 10-12 slices
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 50 minutes
Ingredients
Fresh dairy:
250ml almond milk
100g vegan almond yoghurt
Fruit and vegetables:
150g forced Yorkshire rhubarb
3 plums
From the pantry:
100g coconut oil
200g caster sugar
100g ground almonds
2 tbsp. flaked almonds toasted
2 tsp. almond extract
300g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp. salt
2 tbsp. demerara sugar
75g caster sugar
1 tbsp. plum jam
Method
Pre heat the oven to 180C (fan)/400F/gas mark 6. Line the base of a 23cm loose bottomed fluted round cake tin with baking paper.
Cream together the coconut oil and caster sugar with an electric mixer.
Add the ground almonds and almond extract and mix well.
Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into the bowl.
Mix well adding the almond milk in additions.
Spoon the mix into the prepared tin and level using the back of a spoon.
Sprinkle over the demerara sugar and bake for 45 minutes. Allow to cool completely.
To make the topping, slice the rhubarb into 5cm long batons. Slice the plums in half, remove the stone and slice each half into 3 wedges.
Place the caster sugar, plum jam and 2 tablespoons of water into a saucepan. Bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and add the rhubarb and plums. Cover and simmer for 3-4 minutes until the fruit is soft but still holding shape.
Remove the fruit and set aside to cool. Bring the syrup to the boil and reduce for 2-3 minutes then set to one side to cool.
To decorate the cake, spoon over the almond yoghurt, top with the fruit and pour over the syrup. Decorate with the toasted almonds and serve immediately.
Booths.co.uk
