Dreaming spires, Inspector Morse and a hotly-contested boat race are all synonymous with Oxford, but now the city is raising a glass to its newest attraction - a craft distillery. Lucy Parford meets its founder
It may have some of the world’s oldest universities, libraries and museums, but up until recently the city of Oxford lacked one distinct thing – a craft distillery.
Not any more. The Oxford Artisan Distillery (TOAD) opened for business last summer at its purpose-built site in South Parks. The culmination of five years of planning and collaborations across the worlds of distilling, academia, craft engineering, local government, agriculture and archaeo-botany, TOAD is producing a range of spirits - gin, absinthe, vodka and whiskey - with total provenance from grain to glass.
It is the only distiller in the world to use populations of ancient heritage grains, painstakingly sourced and revived, bulked up over many years and grown sustainably in ways last used in the 19th century.
The distillery, founded by Tom Nicolson, is being hailed as a pivotal first for Oxford and shining example of super-sustainable start up.
Most of the wheat, rye and barley grain used in TOAD’s spirits are grown from varieties that were common in Britain before 1900 when plant breeders began to create the hybrid ‘monoculture’ varieties now used in both conventional and organic farming.
Many of them are historically interesting, but they also thrive in fields which do not need the chemicals essential in intensive arable farming.
Tom says: “Intensive farming has had a catastrophic effect on wildlife - it depletes the soil and contributes to global warming.
“Scientists are also linking pesticides to illnesses like cancer, diabetes, Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s. There has never been a more urgent need to explore less toxic and more nurturing ways of growing our food.”
TOAD’s grain is being grown from the only land races currently in existence in the UK on over 150 acres of English countryside, all located within a 50-mile radius of Oxford. Land race grains are already used in artisan breads which consistently win prizes for their excellent taste.
Sandy Lane Farm, near Thame, is one of the farms devoting six acres of its land to growing land race rye for TOAD’s unique whiskey. Second and third generation farmers Charles and George Bennett have embraced the concept to extend their mixed livestock, arable and organic vegetable farm to growing premium biodiverse grain.
Charles says: “It is ironic that, in looking for ways to move our farm forward, we are returning to farming methods of the ancient past – and we are excited by the possibilities that this will bring.
“Growing and selling biodiverse grain for TOAD’s spirits makes it a highly commercial venture – but one which is also revitalising my land. These crops are actively improving the condition of my soil and the wildlife environment within my farm. A large part of our motivation to do this is not just about finance – but also to be part of something exciting and life-enhancing.”
The Oxford Artisan Distillery was named as one of three finalists in two categories at this year’s prestigious Oxfordshire Business Awards. OXBA shortlisted Oxford’s first grain to glass distillery for the OXLEP New Business Award and the Bicester Village Retail Award.
Tom says: “We are thrilled to have made it to the finals of these great awards and I am sure that it’s not just because we make superb spirits which people love to drink in this fine city.
“I believe it’s because our brilliant team shares a real purpose, one made possible by our wonderful distillers and our incredibly special grain. We provide a value crop option for farmers to farm in a much better way, in a way which helps bring life back to the land.
“We are showing, by example, how food and drink manufacturers can make better choices. And our consumers are helping the process one glass, one sip at a time.”
TOAD’s Oxford Dry Gin, Oxford Botanic Garden – Physic Gin, Ashmolean Dry Gin, Oxford Rye Vodka and Oxford Pure Rye Spirit are available from TOAD’s visitor centre and online.
