Roman roads and packhorse bridges in the valley of the River Gowy

Great British Life: In the footsteps of the legions: on the line of Watling StreetIn the footsteps of the legions: on the line of Watling Street (Image: Archant)

Even now, Tarvin occupies a key position within the local road network, at the point where the A51 and A54 meet. Legionaries tramping from Northwich towards the fortress of Deva would have used the Roman road that passes, in customarily direct fashion, north of the present village.

It is locally referred to as Watling Street, though should not be confused with the better-known route of the same name followed by the A5 northwest from London. The line is still detectable on LIDAR images, and on the route described here is followed by field boundaries and a pleasant public footpath from Tarvin Mill to Stamford Bridge.

It’s somewhat ironic that the ‘Roman Bridges’, probably the highlight of this walk, are nothing to do with this old road. They lie on the other side of the A51, where a medieval packhorse route crosses the plashy valley of the Gowy. Despite being misnomers, the three pretty 18th-century bridges form an irresistible subject that will have you reaching for your phone or camera.

It’s not difficult to picture a jagger and his train of sturdy ponies plodding, panniers laden with Cheshire salt, towards the port and markets of Chester. The surrounding water-meadows and marshes form the atmospheric Hockenhull Platts nature reserve, maintained by the Cheshire Wildlife Trust. ‘Platt’ is an old Cheshire word for a small bridge, and may indicate a rather rudimentary pontoon-like affair built of bundled branches, rather than the permanent stone arches that elevate the path today.

Great British Life: Church House, TarvinChurch House, Tarvin (Image: Archant)

Tarvin has a small-town feel that seems to contradict its modern status, and indeed in centuries past a regular market was held in the village. The imposing tower of the Church of St Andrew looks down on the old grammar school and adjoining hearse house.

The Georgian frontages of The Flaggs and Hamilton House, and the Red Lion and George and Dragon pubs facing them, exemplify the significant reconstruction that took place in the 1750s after fire swept through the village.

Fortunately, the decorative timbered gable of Church House, dating from around 1600, was spared by the flames. Other buildings in the village are distinctively perched on plinths carved directly into the red sandstone bedrock.

Great British Life: The Tarvin walkThe Tarvin walk (Image: Ordnance Survey)

1. From the road junction in the centre of Tarvin, between the Red Lion and George and Dragon, walk down the High Street, with Cornichon restaurant on your left and King Loui fish bar on your right. Look out for the stone plinths that are a feature of several Tarvin houses, notably at Sandstone Cottage. At the bottom of the street, bear left to the A54.

2. Cross carefully and go over a slab stile in the wall opposite onto a footpath. This runs alongside the silted-up, overgrown mill pond of Tarvin Mill, dropping down to the left to pass the building.

Pass a footbridge on the right and continue past the water treatment works to another footbridge that leads into a field. Bear left along the hedge ahead, following a footpath on the line of Watling Street that keeps to the right-hand side of a series of fields separated by stiles and footbridges.

After a little under a mile, at a small agricultural building, bear right to a kissing gate that gives onto Lansdowne Road. Follow the road right to the Stamford Bridge Inn.

3. Turn left by the pub and cross the A54 at the lights with care. Concrete steps lead down the bank to a stile in the wooden fence.

Cross a farm bridge over a ditch then turn right over another. Bear left to a line of willows indicating the River Gowy and follow the river upstream to Stamford Mill. The footpath continues over a stile beyond the mill then crosses the river via a footbridge and bears left across two damp meadows divided by a footbridge, and then an arable field to a road.

4. Turn left and follow the road for three-quarters of a mile, passing Cotton Hall Farm on your right and the entrance to Cotton Edmunds Farm (a remnant of the former parish of the same name) on the left. Unfortunately, a useful permissive path that bypassed much of this tarmac section expired in 2014.

5. At a road junction, turn left into a no-through road. This leads past the entrance of Cotton Farm onto a bridleway that leads with a sense of anticipation to the Roman Bridges. Cross the three bridges and follow the slightly sunken packhorse route beyond.

Great British Life: The sunken path from Hockenhull PlattsThe sunken path from Hockenhull Platts (Image: Archant)

6. On meeting the road, turn left and follow a fieldside track (route 71) uphill, with glimpses through the hedge on the left of Grade II* listed Hockenhull Hall. Beyond a poultry unit, pass to the left of a metal gate, then bear right at the entrance to the Hall. A metalled road leads down to the A51.

7. Cross carefully and turn right the second path on the right, signposted as a public footpath. This, the main route through Tarvin Community Woodlands, is named Grogan’s Walk in memory of Jim Grogan, the driving force in the creation of this well-used amenity.

The path leads straightforwardly and pleasantly through the trees parallel to the bypass until you reach Broomheath Lane. Turn left along the road, and then right at the T-junction. When you meet Tarporley Road at the end, turn left and walk past the church back to the centre of Tarvin.

Great British Life: St Andrew’s Church, TarvinSt Andrew’s Church, Tarvin (Image: Archant)

Compass Points

Area of walk: Tarvin

Start point: village centre, CH3 8EE

Distance: 5¾ miles

Time to allow: 2–3 hours

Map: OS Explorer 266: Wirral & Chester/Caer

Refreshments: The Stamford Bridge Inn stamfordbridgeinn.co.uk 01829 740 229
George and Dragon, Red Lion and various food outlets in Tarvin.

Practicalities: May be overgrown in places, and a little muddy after rain; several stiles. Some road walking and main road crossings.

Great British Life: The Stamford Bridge InnThe Stamford Bridge Inn (Image: The Stamford Bridge Inn)

Stamford Bridge Inn
Nothing to do with blue-clad footballers, the Stamford Bridge Inn is a comfortable coaching inn just off the A51 a few miles east of Chester, conveniently placed halfway round this route.

Although the namesake battle of 1066 in Yorkshire is better known, Cheshire’s Stamford Bridge has also seen military action: in 1643 the bridge over the River Gowy was the scene of a Civil War skirmish between Parliamentarians garrisoned at Tarvin and the Chester-based Royalists.

The menu features a range of sharing dishes, classic mains, steaks, burgers and salads. There’s also a kids’ menu with smaller portions, and sandwiches are available during the day.

On Sundays, the focus switches to traditional roast dinners, though some of the mains from the daily menu are still available. Drinks are from the Hydes Brewery stable, including at least three hand-pulled cask ales.

The Stamford Bridge is dog friendly: walkers with dogs are welcome in designated areas inside, as well as in the garden where, weather-permitting, barbecues take place. Manager Kyle Bate recommends checking the outlet’s social media pages for the latest information on opening hours and special events.