There’s something about London’s West End that hits differently.
It’s been some years since I was last in London and the ‘wow factor’ hit immediately upon emerging from Oxford Circus tube station.
This is theatre country, synonymous with the best talents and shows Britain has to offer.
Look deeper and you’ll find, much as I did, that there’s more that makes this stunning part of the capital special – much more.
Soho, in the heart of the West End, is a fashion-lover’s paradise. The world-famous Carnaby Street, for example, became the heartbeat of the swinging sixties’ fashion scene and has not released its grip.
Landmarks jump out at every turn. Neighbouring Oxford Street, Regent Street and Chinatown reveal themselves but it was Carnaby Street that just felt so iconic and electric.
And it is the atmosphere here that makes it. Soho, and Carnaby Street by extension, feels alive – the buzz palpable.
What immediately strikes you is how beautiful this part of London is.
Soho’s architecture is wonderful - an amalgamation of buildings from mock Tudor, art deco and everything in between.
Carnaby Street is an assault on the senses – in the best possible way. Highlights include murials on buildings; the unmissable 3D Union Flag which shimmers in the sun; the Rainbow installations which welcome you; the Festoon Lights of Kingly Street; and (my favourite and best seen at night) the 51 oversized light bulbs suspended from the sky on Garton Street.
Remarkably, Soho itself extends a solitary square mile, give or take. The greatest compliment I can pay is you could happily spend a weekend here without ever needing to leave its boundaries, such is the plethora of things to see and do.
There’s not many places that could say that.
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SHOPPING
Retail therapy in Soho is a divine experience. Beautiful window displays complement wonderful colour and vibrancy with no two stores alike.
This is the definition of experiential shopping, a world away from visiting a generic store or browsing online.
Nationally-renowned brands, such as Barbour and Fred Perry, are plentiful but it’s the independents and quirky shops I found most enthralling, where you’re met with staff who seem genuinely happy to see you and have a chat.
My wife and I racked up over 17,500 steps during the day – the definition of ‘shop ‘till you drop’!
Highlights, of which there were many, included the wonderful RS No.9 Carnaby – the official flagship store of the Rolling Stones.
Despite being a huge Beatles fan myself, I really enjoyed this place, which features all the hallmarks of the iconic Rolling Stones and includes exclusive fashion label ‘RS No. 9 Carnaby’.
I spoke of a wonderful assault on the senses in the introduction, well that’s incapsulated at Ffern, an artisan natural fragrance maker specialising in organic and vegan perfumes and fragrances.
Fashion is everywhere here – with something for everyone. Mark Powell; Wood Wood; and Oliver Spencer were three outlets in this space that I really enjoyed browsing around.
EATING
The range and quality of Soho’s food and drink scene is quite astonishing.
We visited Bar Kroketa on Beak Street for lunch, probably our favourite. Quirky, relaxed and informal, it’s like stepping off the streets of London into the heart of Spain.
The tapas were delicious, so much so I had to order a second lot of my chorizo popcorn. My wife, a vegetarian, had as much to choose from too. Given this is in the heart of the West End, prices were very reasonable also.
For tea we opted for a change in cuisine and visited Darjeeling Express, a newly opened restaurant which celebrates the food of North India and Bengal.
A set menu, the whole place felt so authentic and my main dish contained probably the most tender, succulent beef I have tasted.
The setting was incredible. Found on the top floor of Kingly Court, the court itself is one large, beautiful celebration of food from around the world. An amazing place.
We had breakfast at Dishoom Carnaby, which pays homage to the Irani cafés once part of the fabric of Bombay. Naturally, I had the ‘Big Bombay’ – although I was jealous of my wife’s naan roll! The place was busy, and we soon understood why!
RECOMMENDATIONS:
STAY:
The Courthouse Hotel, on Great Marlborough Street, is a stone’s throw from the London Palladium.
We found the hotel beautiful, luxurious, perfectly placed with employees who could not do enough for us.
The former Marlborough Street Magistrates’ Court, there are nods to its past, including photos of famous names who have passed through – such as Oscar Wilde and John Lennon.
ENJOY:
If you want to experience the true essence of Soho, head down (literally) to Nightjar Carnaby.
We were met with a dimly lit interior, a jazz pianist playing and friendly staff who took our tapas and cocktail orders at our table. If you’re back from the theatre, this rounds off the evening perfectly.
