The Luberon region of Provence in July truly is a sight to behold. Row upon row of vigorous looking grape-bearing vines, clusters of ageless, verdant olive trees, the delicate, sweet smell of lavender fields coming into bloom – all against a backdrop of ochre plains and craggy mountains, bathed in a beautiful, shimmering sunlight.
It’s no surprise then that the first thing you see when you drive through the gates of Le Phebus Hotel and Spa is a full-length stone statue of a deity, above a trickling fountain, gazing out over the garrigue hills. This is – the evidence is the athletic build and the familiar pose – surely Phebus (Phoebus), better known as Apollo, in Greek mythology ‘the bright light’, God of the sun, but also patron of herdsmen and shepherds. It seems a most appropriate name for the place we’re staying, paying homage to the glorious climate of this area but also its rich agricultural past.
Le Phebus Hotel & Spa, on the outskirts of the delightful hilltop village of Joucas, has been in existence since the early 1980s, when it was built on remains dating back to the medieval knights of the Order of Malta. It is owned and run by the Mathieu family, who have been in the hospitality business for generations, and it is their welcoming, personal touch that sets it apart from other five-star, boutique hotels in Provence.
Our young, charming concierge Brieux was a case in point, escorting us to our deluxe room a short walk from the central lobby, and all the while giving us much useful information about the hotel’s amenities. Our room – really it was a luxurious suite – is one of 24 (including a villa) dotted around in a cluster of converted stone farm buildings. Then there are swimming pools (one central, two others private), tennis court, and bicycles if you’re feeling energetic before the heat of midday.
Our room, a beautifully cool haven in the middle of a very hot spell, had everything you could wish for – a sumptuous king-sized bed, good bedside reading light, a pair of comfortable armchairs, a huge, impressive walk-in wardrobe, and an outside terrace with sun loungers.
The piece de resistance, however, was the stunning, marbled bathroom, with freestanding separate washbasins at one end, a roll top bath, and a superbly effective waterfall shower situated in the centre of the room’s vast space.
A visit to the spa revealed the great views it has through huge picture windows to the wooded grounds. The complex has three spacious massage booths, relaxation areas, a herbal tea room, swimming pool and outdoor jetted tub.
Relaxation and wellness are key ingredients of a stay at Le Phebus, but it is for the gastronomic experience that many beat a path to its door. It boasts a Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant (since 2001), La Table de Xavier Mathieu, and a bistro, Le Café de La Fontaine.
Xavier Mathieu, who sports a distinctive shock of white hair, was born and brought up in Marseille and his cooking reflects Provencal traditions with his own added personal twist. None more so than his signature Pistou soup, with haricot beans, tomatoes, garlic and basil, the first of seven dishes we sampled on a mouth-watering tasting menu.
Among other highlights was fresh ratatouille sweetened with burnt onion syrup, a delicious cod with leeks (‘like Grandma Rose used to cook’), and leg of lamb (‘cooked in the warm sand of the dry garrigue’). We sampled a selection of superb cheeses – goat, sheep and cow – and it was all washed down with a selection of white and red wines, chosen by our waiter. At the end of the evening Monsieur Mathieu came around the tables to exchange a word or two and receive the personal congratulations of the contented, sated customers.
The following night we moved out of those refined, white-tablecloth surroundings and ate more informally down by the swimming pool in Le Café de La Fontaine, while enjoying the music of an excellent folk music trio Django-Charlie.
The pounds were starting to pile on but a lengthy early morning swim in the spacious main pool somewhat redressed the balance, followed by a half-mile stroll into the village of Joucas, which was waking up slowly in the mid-morning. No cars here, just a few hardy cyclists, as we meandered up winding, cobbled steps and around hidden alleys, marvelling at the neatness of the place. An old lady pottered far and wide with her watering can, seemingly taking responsibility for all the plants of her street.
Wandering around the stone pavements we stumbled upon some remarkable sculptures – ‘Le Labyrinthe d’Art’ – including a woman with auburn hair appearing as if to dive across the street, whilst outside the church the wooden figure of a man falls backwards, arms splayed outwards with an anguished face gazing at the sky.
Le Phebus was the perfect base from which to follow the Van Gogh trail (St Remy) or learn more about French Resistance leader Jean Moulin (St Andiol). As ever Provence proved the land of culture, land of beauty, land of plenty. It always draws you back.
For more information visit lephebus.com
