Dining at San Carlo Italian restaurant in Alderley Edge

Can there be a more iconic address in Cheshire's hospitality industry than the landmark site at London Road, Alderley Edge SK9 7QD. Once that late '90s/early noughties playground of the celebrity Cheshire set Brasingamens, then Panacea, and on to Piccolino and Yu, before Gino D'Acampo's short-lived Luciano. Just over a year ago, the name of San Carlo went up over the door following a £3million refurbishment by the family group that began serving up 'the best Italian food in the UK' in 1992 and which now operates throughout the country including at its various, much Manchester locations.

San Carlo's Italian ambience, served up from the heart of Alderley Edge. (Image: Matt Airey) The Alderley Edge restaurant is a place for all seasons, as lovely as its very lovely clientele, both in spring and summer when those who watch and like to be watched populate the sunny dining terrace, and in autumn and winter when the interior, inspired by grand Milanese architecture, is warm and welcoming.

On the night we visited there was definitely a chill in the Alderley Edge air, and with it came an urge to add layers – and not just thermals from Hoopers. Hearty, meaty, filling dishes were what was needed, and the San Carlo chefs were totally on board with this.

Winter warmer - slow-cooked lamb meatballs in tomato sauce with short caserecce pasta. (Image: Matt Airey) The autumn-winter menu is packed with temptation from such deliciousness as Fegatini di Pollo (pan-fried chicken livers cooked with Marsala wine, chestnuts and grapes, £11.95) to Casarecce con Ragu di Polpette (slow-cooked lamb meatballs in tomato sauce with casarecce pasta (£18.95). It's comfort food heaven. There are, of course, salads on the starter list too, no Italian restaurant worth its name dares drop the mozzarella, and this is where we headed first, in an optimistic moment of restraint.

Tartare di Manzo - a generous portion of rich beef tartare with mustard dressing. (Image: Matt Airey) The Noci, Pere & Prosciutto (£13.95 didn't disappoint. Generous mounds of soft, fresh buffalo mozzarella wrapped in unctuous, salty Parma ham, layered with fine slices of sweet pear, peppery rocket and walnut pieces – a year-round classic given an autumnal twist with the addition of the pear and walnut. The very generous portion size would allow this as a main course or lunchtime perfection. Our other starter was the Tartare di Manzo (beef tartare with mustard dressing (£17.95) – a hearty helping of richness for those with an appetite for both raw steak and an unrestrained beginning to their meal

Malfaldine con Ragu di Manzo, where short pasta marries with the tenderest of beef. (Image: Matt Airey) For mains, we chose Malfadine con Ragu di Manzo declared by Kate as, 'a fabulous dish is comfort food taken to a whole new level.' Short ribbons of perfectly al dentre malfaldine pasta are wrapped in a ragu sauce made with shreds of beef cooked very slowly and studded with sweet hits of tomato has to be the ultimate high-end winter warmer, and worth making a regular pilgrimage in itself. The meat was meltingly soft and clung to the rippled pasta, glossy, deep red and scrape-the-bowl delicious. 'I have now Googled retailers (go Waitrose!) and shall be adding it to my own winter menu – though with considerably less panache than demonstrated by the team at San Carlo.'

Ravioli Porcini, a creamy mushroom delight. (Image: Matt Airey) Our second main was the Ravioli Porcini of handmade mushroom ravioli with a creamy porcini sauce (starter £13.95/ main £19.95). We tasted each other's choices, with Joanne declaring the fungi like a fabulous version of the long-lamented Chesswood creamed mushrooms that used to be available in tins to warm up and pop onto hot butter toast.

Frangipane alla Pesca and Torta Caprese - order one each and share. (Image: Matt Airey) Winter layering isn't complete without pudding, and after some debate, it was agreed the only way to solve the decision-stress dilemma was to share. The Frangipane alla Pesca (peach and almond cake) sat prettily alongside Torta Caprese, an almond and chocolate cake that packed a wallop of darkly delicious chocolate into every weighty morsel of squidgy, almondy delight (both £8.50). The chocolate option won it on the night, but you really can't go wrong with the lighter, sweeter frangipane and it was a fine counterpoint to its luxurious cousin.

The San Carlo menu is extensive – Bruschette e Pane, Antipasti, Pasta, Pizza, Carne, Macelleria, Contorni, Pesce, Dolci.... together with a choice of gran dishes for two or more to share.

The wine list is gran too, with a wide variety from Italy and the Italian islands, and a short French selection. The Cervaro della Sala Marchesi Antinori from Umbria at £142.75 or the Château Mouton-Rothschild 2006 Paulliac, Bordeaux at £2,450 are very gran but there is a good choice by the glass as well as plenty of well-priced bottles and half bottles.

If you have an appetite this winter for prime Italian food at a prime location, San Carlo is the place to go – but go hungry.

San Carlo, Alderley Edge, London Road, Alderley Edge, SK9 7QD, 01625 837 820 sancarlo.co.uk/restaurants/san-carlo-alderley-edge

Mariusz Twardowski, head chef San Carlo. (Image: Matt Airey)