Go to any coast or river ‘hotspot’ in fine weather and you’ll almost certainly hear paddleboards being inflated or see their colourful outlines float gracefully across the water’s surface. Paddleboarding is fairly easy to learn, the kit is affordable, and above all it offers a very simple route to getting out on the water.
We intuitively know that we feel better in ‘blue spaces’, and the science behind the mental and physical benefits of being close to water is becoming clear. A new term, ‘blue health’, has been coined and Wallace J Nicholls, a Californian surfer and marine biologist, sums it up perfectly when he suggests that being on, under, or beside water results in a ‘mildly meditative state characterized by calm, peacefulness, unity, and a sense of general happiness and satisfaction with life in the moment’. It’s little wonder, then, that paddleboarding has become so popular and why more of us are discovering this activity every day.
Whatever our reason for paddling, few places in the world offer more than England’s Southwest, a view endorsed by the thousands of paddlers I met along the region’s coast, lakes, canals, and rivers. Most of the routes chosen have recognised car parks and access to the water, toilets and facilities near the launch point, and refreshments along the way. Many are covered by local paddling providers, who offer lessons, hire and tours. They are also helpful in sharing local information and their alternative, lesser-known routes. Most of the paddles in this book are unique, and special for their natural beauty or cultural interest, and will be a great addition to your bucket list.
Porthcurno to Pedn Vounder
A sublime paddle between two of the best beaches in Cornwall beneath stunning cliff scenery. Your reward for descending the steep steps to Porthcurno Beach is fine white sands lapped by impossibly turquoise seas, followed by majestic views from the water of this dramatic coastline. To the west, hewn straight out of the cliffs, the Minack Theatre’s stepped open-air terraces and low stone buildings are an unforgettable sight. To the east, the towering coastal cliffs build to a crescendo from Treen to the craggy peninsula beyond, crowned by Logan Rock. Head past a couple of tiny beaches that are cut off at higher tides from the main Porthcurno beach to reach beautiful Pedn Vounder. On the return paddle, look out for diving seabirds, basking sharks, and dolphins.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 1.6km return
STARTING POINT: Porthcurno Beach, Grid ref. SW 3874 2224(50.0426, -5.6500)
LAUNCHING: 500m walk from carpark; steep steps
PARKING: Telegraph Museum car park, Porthcurno, Penzance TR19 6JX
PITSTOPS: The Logan Rock Inn, Treen, 01736 810495
Hayle Estuary
The Hayle estuary, where the river flows into sweeping St Ives Bay, is renowned for its vibrant birdlife, spectacular sunrises, and sunsets. One of only a few natural harbours on Cornwall's north coast, there’s plenty of history to this once-thriving port that served the local tin and copper mines. The whole estuary is an RSPB Nature Reserve, providing sanctuary for thousands of birds every year including oystercatchers, curlews, and little egrets. Launch from North Quay and have fun paddling in the clear waters, away from the bustle of St Ives. Around high tide, head upstream to explore the old wharves of South Quay and catch sight of the ancient church of St Uny on the Lelant side of the estuary. If there is very low swell in the estuary mouth, it is possible to explore the huge white expanse of stunning Porthkidney Sands and its dune system.
At a glance
DISTANCE: Free-range
ACCESS RESTRICTIONS: Do not paddle into conservation areas: Lelant Saltings, Carnsew Pool, and Copperhouse Creek
STARTING POINT: North Quaybeach close to Lula Shack. Grid ref. SW5528 3790 (50.1905, -5.4298). LAUNCHING: Beach 250m walk from car park
PARKING: Harveys Towans car park, Riviere Towans, Hayle TR27 5AT
PITSTOPS: Black Lobster for the best seafood and music, fabulous pasties at Philps bakery, 01736 753343; soup and cake at Café Riviera, 07749 281786
St Michael’s Mount and Bay
Paddle in the shadow of dramatic St Michael’s Mount or circumnavigate the island for unique views of the castle gardens. Launch from Marazion, a historic small-town set alongside a beautiful stretch of sandy beach, and make for the Mount, exploring the rocky outcrops where cormorants or gulls vie for space with seals. Keeping well away from the granite walls of the harbour entrance to avoid the frequent tour boats, discover the south side of the island with its fantastic waterside views of the castle and subtropical cliff-side gardens. On the return, enjoy the panoramic vista across the bay to Newlyn and Penzance.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 2.5km island circumnvigation
ACCESS RESTRICTIONS: No landing on island
STARTING POINT: Marazion Beach, TR17 0EJ. Grid ref. SW 5146 3066 (50.1239, -5.4760).
LAUNCHING: Beach, 20m walk from car park
PARKING: Follyfield Long Stay Car Park, West End, Marazion, TR17 0ET
PITSTOPS: Vegetarian and coffee- lovers head to the Copper Spoon, 01736 711607
Mullion Cove Explorer
Locked between plunging cliffs and a small guardian island, this idyllic cove offers slightly more shelter to the paddler than much of the Lizard’s west coast. After exploring the harbour, head south (left) to find a small, hidden beach at the base of a giant amphitheatre of boulders. There is a secret tunnel from the harbour through the cliffs to this beach, so you may encounter others who have walked there. A larger beach further on offers more seclusion as it can only be reached from the sea. Alternatively, turn right out of the harbour to paddle around the islet of Scovarn and explore the pools or, for a longer trip in calm conditions, circumnavigate Mullion Island.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 2km island circumnavigation
ACCESS RESTRICTIONS: Landing is not permitted on Mullion Island
STARTING POINT: Mullion Harbour beach, TR12 7ES. Grid ref. SW 6666 1787 (50.0151, -5.2585)
LAUNCHING: Harbour slipway 600m walk from car park
PARKING: Mullion Cove car park, Nansmellyon Rd, TR12 7ET
PITSTOPS: Crab sandwiches and cream teas overlooking the harbour at Porthmellin Café, 01326 24094
Kynance and Asparagus Island
Reached by a steep, rocky path that winds through purple heather, the first glimpse of spectacular Kynance Cove makes carrying the kit for this paddle worthwhile. At high tide on a summer’s day the small beach is a multicoloured carpet of humanity but head a few metres into the ocean and wilderness beckons. In calm conditions, it’s possible to circumnavigate the island, where you’ll rarely see another soul. Pass the Stack and the nearby cliff caves known as the Drawing Room (they can be explored at low tide), then either paddle between Asparagus Island and Gull Rock to its south or circumnavigate both. Expect to be accompanied on this journey by an inquisitive seal or two.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 1km island circumnavigation
STARTING POINT: Sand tombolo between mainland and Asparagus Island, Kynance Cove. Grid ref. SW6849 1331 (49.9745, -5.2322)
LAUNCHING: Beach, 500m walk from car park down steep, rocky path
PARKING: Kynance Cove Car Park (NT), Pentreath Lane, Landewednack, TR12 7NY
PITSTOPS: Good local food overlooking the beach at Kynance Cove café, 01326 290436
Helford and Frenchman’s Creek
Float on the calm, green water of the Helford as it wends its way past low hills and ancient woodlands between the Lizard and Falmouth. En route, discover secluded beaches and creeks, including mysterious Frenchman’s Creek immortalised by writer Daphne du Maurier. Here, egrets stand tall on the muddy banks, deer rustle among the low boughs of ancient oak, and plump grey mullet swim just below the surface.
At a glance
DISTANCE: More than 23km of waterways
ACCESS RESTRICTIONS: Durgan Beach £2 launch fee to NT at Glendurgan Gardens; Gweek Boatyard slipway launch fee £1.50/honesty box
STARTING POINT: Helford Village (S side of river) slipway next to the Shipwrights Arms, TR12 6JX. Grid ref. SW 7585 2622 (50.0937, -5.1352)
LAUNCHING: Higher tide launches: Helford Village 200m walk from car park to ford; when creek is dry: slipway at Shipwright Arms from mid-tide,500m walk from car park. Low-tide launches: Helford Point, 750m walk from car park; Helford Passage beach 200m walk from car park
PARKING: Helford Village car park (charges), TR12 6JU
PITSTOPS: Holy Mackerel Café in Helford, 01326 231008; and the Shipwrights Arms, 01326 231235
Loe Beach to Cowlands Creek
Paddle along a popular boating creek to explore a former industrial port then relax on the pontoon of one of Cornwall’s best-known inns. Starting from the watersports haven of Loe Beach, paddle right and follow the west bank of the estuary, past the exclusive waterfront houses to reach Restronguet Point. Enter Restronguet Creek (right) with its strings of moored boats and continue along the left bank of the creek for 300m or so to reach the small beach and pontoon of the thatched 13th-century Pandora Inn. Inside, the old flagstone floors, low-beamed ceilings, and ancient wall paneling evokes centuries of maritime history and open fires welcome those on winter paddles. In the summer, sit out on the pontoon and enjoy fresh seafood while watching the swans and boats glide by.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 4km to Pandora Inn return; 10km to Devoran return
STARTING POINT: Loe Beach TR3 6SH. Grid ref. SW 8252 3808 (50.2027, -5.0489)
LAUNCHING: Sand beach next to the car park
PARKING: Loe Beach car park (charges), Feock, Truro, TR3 6SH
PITSTOPS: Pandora Inn, 01326 372678
St Mawes to St Just in Roseland
A journey up Carrick Roads to St Just in Roseland Church, described by poet Sir John Betjeman as having ‘the most beautiful churchyard on earth’. Start from Castle Cove, overlooked by the rounded bastions of 16th-century St Mawes Castle guarding the estuary of the Percuil River, then paddle upstream (right) past the peaceful wildflower meadows and woodlands of this low-lying coast. Entering St Just Creek, pass the moorings and characterful Pascoe’s Boatyard then round the shingle spit to enter the tidal pool. On calm days, the enchanting church, nestled in lush tropical gardens above the shoreline, is perfectly reflected in the water. The range and vividness of greens and blues are simply incredible when viewed from the pool. Land on the shingle spit and walk to the churchyard, taking time to read the inscriptions on the ivy-clad tombs, then discover the narrow walkways that weave their way uphill to the café for heavenly cakes and lunches.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 9km return
STARTING POINT: Castle Cove, Castle Drive, St Mawes, TR2 5DE Grid ref. SW 8399 3277 (50.1556, -5.0254)
PARKING: St Mawes Castle car park, TR2 5DA
LAUNCHING: Pebble/rock beach 30m from the car park
PITSTOPS: Mrs V’s Cornish Cream Tea, 07500 418504
Newquay, the Gazzle
Explore smugglers’ sea caves and landmarks associated with the once-thriving pilchard trade on the wild side of Newquay. Start from the sheltered waters of popular Towan Beach then paddle around Jagos Island, connected to the mainland by its iconic suspension bridge. Head towards the harbour and the Fly Cellar just beyond – a stone platform where barrels of locally caught pilchards were hauled up. The wilder part of the journey now begins as you explore narrow, deep indents, caves, and tunnels. Round the small headland beyond Pigeon Cove and its cave, then navigate between the rocks of the headland and the outlier, known as Old Dane. Here, the lush kelp forest is home to Newquay’s resident grey seals: Trunk, Rodley and Medallion Man. Keep a lookout for them and the other abundant marine life of the Gazzle. Pass the disused lifeboat station launch ramp, once the steepest in the country, to reach the tip of Towan Head. Return the same way.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 3.5km return
STARTING POINT: Towan Beach, TR7 1DU Grid ref. SW 8109 6182 (50.4153, -5.0829)
LAUNCHING: Beach, 500m walk from the car park
PARKING: Harbour car park, Beach Road (charges), Newquay, TR7 1HR. Fore Street Car Park, TR7 1LP, closer but 2 hours max; free after 4pm
PITSTOPS: Street Café Bar, 07944 884038; Red Lion, 01637 872195
Wacker Quay to St Germans
Enjoy a peaceful cruise along the Lynher, exploring secluded side-creeks en route to St Germans, or paddle to the river’s tidal limit at Notter Bridge. Leave from 19th-century Wacker Quay, formerly an agricultural dock with a lime kiln, later a military quay linked by rail to supply nearby Scraesdon and Tregantle forts. Paddle a short distance downstream (right) to join the main river, then head upstream (left) between rolling fields and wooded banks, observing the varied birdlife on the water and mudflats. You might even glimpse otters and deer close to the shore. At the confluence of the Lynher and Tiddy, keep left on the Tiddy and head towards the dramatic viaduct at historic St Germans. River barges loaded with timber, coal, and limestone once tied up at its quay, now home to the village sailing club. Stop at the slipway and have a picnic on the grass before returning the same way.
At a glance
DISTANCE: 8km to St Germans return
STARTING POINT: Wacker Quay, Antony, Torpoint, PL11 3AH Grid ref. SX 3889 5508 (50.3735, -4.2670) LAUNCHING: Riverbank adjacent to parking area
PARKING: Small area behind Wacker Quay, Antony, Torpoint, PL11 3AH
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