From watching granny in the kitchen to cooking for the stars, Richard Hunt, executive chef at The View restaurant at The Courtyard Hotel in Exeter, reflects on a memorable culinary career
Earliest food memory?
My father’s side of the family were hoteliers. My father had three hotels in Weston-super-Mare and my grandparents had a hotel. There was a stool right by where my grandmother used to cook in the kitchen and I was fascinated by what was going on – how she made gravy and prepared food. It was watching her that ignited that first spark in me for cooking.
How would you describe your approach to food?
Simple, honest, uncomplicated. I have always been a great believer that the ingredient is the star. When you buy an ingredient it is at 100 per cent – you cannot make it more. I studied molecular gastronomy, but if you have a wonderful piece of duck from 12 miles up the road, it will tell its own story. We are custodians of this food industry, of the products, of the people catching it or growing it. The more sympathetic we can be to an ingredient’s origins, the better.
Who’s your food hero, a chef who’s inspired you?
Growing up, I was a huge fan of Keith Floyd. His honesty about food was, I think, where a lot of my belief comes from. My cousin went to school with him and he designed the pub at Tuckenhay, down near Totnes. The BBC aired a series called A Tale from the Riverbank of Keith opening the pub and transforming it. I went into the pub and Keith was there. He bought me a drink at the bar and chatted to me. I was about 20 or 21 at the time and I remember thinking what a nice man he was spending time talking to me.
The Roux brothers also inspired me. They had a TV show in the 80s. As a Devon boy, I joined the Academy of Culinary Arts and the brothers were two of the founders. I had my interview with Michel Roux senior. I was sitting at the dining table with them, thinking these people are culinary gods. I was just this Devon boy sat opposite them – they were legends.
A memorable cooking experience?
I have cooked for members of the Royal family, like Prince Michael of Kent. I have been at events cooking for the late Queen Elizabeth and the Queen Mother. I was invited to go to Singapore to the British Club to cook for the Queen’s Jubilee and it was the most amazing experience.
I have worked in two private members’ clubs, so I have cooked for everyone from British tennis player Tim Henman to Hollywood movie stars Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones. I have also cooked for Gregg Wallace (without knowing he was in the restaurant) and he was a lovely chap, and professional footballers Harry Kane and John Terry. Everyone is a guest and it doesn’t matter what their standing is, you always do your best.
Your favourite dish on the current menu?
On the main menu it would have to be the sea bass with roasted baby fennel with a harbour fish cream that takes six hours to make. It’s a great piece of sea bass – wild, line caught in the South West. There are only four items in the dish, but the flavour is a taste of the sea.
A favourite dining out spot in Devon?
I love The Galley in Topsham and The Elephant in Torquay. I enjoy a simple dish that’s well made. I also like going and getting a nice sandwich with a great filling, a drink or a cup of coffee and watching the world go by.
What do you love most about Devon?
What is not to love about Devon? I was born in Mutley, Plymouth. I love the coast and I am passionate about our county. Exeter and Plymouth are great cities and they are so welcoming.
A down-time, go-to meal you like to cook or eat at home?
I love to do a barbecue because I am inside cooking all the time for work. I like getting some lovely beef or a bit of lamb or fish and cooking it on the barbecue. Chefs are notorious for not cooking what they cook in their restaurants at home – just ask my wife!
