A quick straw poll among friends – the ones who usually know which hotels are worth staying at and which restaurants are worth the trip – came back with a surprising result. Only one or two had heard of Gilpin. To be fair, it is over the border in Cumbria, but from much of Lancashire it’s only around an hour’s drive away.
If you haven’t heard of Gilpin before, then perhaps you might recognise the names of its restaurants. The Michelin-starred SOURCE is led by chef Ollie Bridgwater, formerly of Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck, while Gilpin Spice has built a loyal following for its bold, pan-Asian menu. If you are one of the lucky ones to have eaten or stayed there, then you’ll already know what a special kind of place it is (and why some guests are quite happy to keep it to themselves).
I can’t remember exactly when Gilpin first popped onto my radar, but I vividly remember seeing a photo of its spa suites – modern-looking, wood-clad structures hovering above the water – and thinking how beautiful it looked and how unlike anything I’d previously associated with the Lake District. I made a mental note to visit ‘one day’.
That day came in the form of a two-night stay as part of Gilpin’s Magical Wellness Hideaways – a thoughtfully put-together package designed for guests who are recovering, feeling worn down, or simply in need of proper rest.
Gilpin sits just outside Windermere, surrounded by 21 acres of woodland and gardens. Bought in 1987 by John and Christine Cunliffe and transformed from John’s grandmother’s modest guesthouse into a luxury retreat, it’s still very much a family affair, now run by their son Barney and his wife Zoe.
The estate is split across two sites about a mile apart: Gilpin Hotel, higher up the hillside, and Gilpin Lake House, closer to the water. Guests can hop between the two using the hotel’s chauffeur service, although there’s really no pressure to go anywhere once you’ve arrived.
We were staying in one of the spa suites I had seen in the photo, set back from the main hotel up on the hillside. We arrived after dark and were met by a friendly member of staff who hopped into a golf buggy and guided us – still in our car – uphill towards what would be our home for the next two nights. Once he opened the door, it was clear this wasn’t really a ‘room’ at all. At 100 square metres the spa suites at Gilpin are more like spacious apartments. He gave us a quick tour, starting in the kitchenette, where a welcome bottle of Champagne was waiting on ice, before leading us into a large open living space. Floor-to-ceiling windows hinted at views we’d have to wait until morning to appreciate, and a hanging fire glowed in the corner giving the whole place a cosy feel.
To the right was the bedroom, to the left was a large freestanding circular bath and, behind that, a double shower, clearly positioned to make the most of whatever lay beyond the glass. The real highlight, though, was the private spa room, with a sauna, steam room, infrared lounge bed and Japanese massage chair – a piece of kit I became very attached to, very quickly.
Outside, there was clearly more to explore – a decked garden and a huge sunken hot tub – but those, too, would have to wait until daylight. It was undeniably indulgent, but the decor, with its calming green and grey colour scheme and use of natural materials kept it from feeling flashy.
That first evening we dined at SOURCE in the main hotel, settling in for the seven-course tasting menu with a wine pairing and a welcome glass of Champagne. The dining room was low-key and relaxed, and the food followed suit, seasonal and comforting, spot-on for a winter night. Highlights included a punchy bullshot ‘cocktail’ using beef stock – a nod to local hunting traditions – a deeply savoury venison tartlet and a fish course built around trout, citrus and bone broth. Even the bread deserves a mention, a Japanese-style loaf with a Marmite glaze, served with cultured butter, that we didn’t want to fill up on, but couldn’t resist polishing off.
The next morning, in the daylight we finally got to see what we’d missed the night before: the countryside views stretching out all around us and the resident alpacas grazing quietly in the field next door. From the bedroom, the suite really did feel as though it was floating on the pond, and the whole space felt extremely private, with no passing footpaths or anyone overlooking us. We used the dedicated Gilpin app to make our breakfast selections and had them delivered to our door – bliss.
You could easily explore Windermere or head out walking from here, but we had something planned as part of the package, which took us by ferry across Windermere to the village of Far Sawrey to visit the home of natural skincare company Pure Lakes. The brand’s products are used throughout Gilpin, from the spa treatments to the in-room shampoos and hand soaps. We were there to experience one of the candle making workshops they run for small groups.
The Pure Lakes building itself is a bright, modern space where owners Claire and Gareth McKeever make their products. A window from the workshop area looks directly into the small factory, and if you’re lucky you might even get a tour like we did.
We start by testing our sense of smell by identifying different scents on a strip of card and are quietly pleased to score a full five out of five. From there, Claire helps us choose base, middle and top notes for our candles, teaching us how different scent combinations work together. We’re guided through quantities and blending, right down to practical details like how to keep the candle wick straight. It’s absorbing and soothing work and takes a couple of hours, rounding off with a slice of cake and a warm drink while our creations set. We leave with our own uniquely blended candles.
Back at Gilpin, we spent the afternoon moving slowly through our private in-room spa trail, drifting between the sauna, steam room, infrared lounge bed, massage chair and hot tub whenever we felt like it with no schedules to follow and no shared spaces to navigate.
As part of the package, we also had a couple’s massage booked and, rather wonderfully – since we had our own spa suite – we didn’t have to go anywhere, the therapists came to us. It was deeply relaxing, the sort of treatment that leaves you feeling heavy-limbed and half-asleep. The only small downside came at the end, when we were asked to pull on robes and come out to chat through the treatment, just at the moment when all I really wanted to do was stay put and drift for a little longer.
That evening, we ate at Gilpin Spice. It was much livelier than at SOURCE, with groups of diners and the open kitchen creating a buzzing atmosphere. The menu travels the spice trail – from the Philippines and India through to Thailand, Japan and China – with lots of appetising sounding dishes designed for sharing. We tried the pani puri, spice-fried chicken with gochujang and black sesame, slow-cooked ox cheek in Rendang sauce and the Herdwick lamb rump boti, followed by the mango kulfi ‘Magnum’ – a mango, passion fruit and mint dessert that was a decadent, grown-up take on the ice-cream-van favourite.
On our final morning, we swapped the privacy of the suite for breakfast in the main hotel, sitting among other guests as normal life slowly edged back in. We took our time, reluctant to rush away and already half-planning a return visit. Maybe that’s why Gilpin has stayed something of a secret on this side of the border. It seems quite happy to let people find it in their own time. After two nights here, though, it felt only fair to let the secret out of the bag.
A three-night midweek spa suite Magical Wellness Hideaway costs £4,030, putting it firmly in special-occasion territory rather than an everyday getaway. But for couples, or anyone craving a few days that will stay with you long after you’ve gone home, that feels like exactly the point..
thegilpin.co.uk
