In my view, a pudding eaten in the heat of summer never needs to be more elaborate than something fruity, something creamy, with either a crunchy biscuit or a delicious cake. It’s not the time for sticky toffee pudding or chocolate fondant.

Between about January and May, the only real fruity options available on our shores are rhubarb and stored apples, both of which are completely delicious. However, this does mean that when it comes to summer, the options become slightly overwhelming: strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, cherries, redcurrants, figs, etc.

From my house near Ham Hill I have been watching multiple fields of gnarled blackcurrant bushes slowly ripen over the last few months, and they hold a special place in my heart. Blackcurrants have such an intense flavour and colour and make me feel excited about whatever pudding I’m making.

I usually cook these berries very simply in a saucepan with a generous pinch of sugar until the skins burst and they form a natural compote.

This is a great opportunity to introduce some complementary flavours; a couple of fig leaves or a sprig of lemon verbena works well. However, if you are growing the blackcurrants yourself, I would recommend using a handful of leaves from the blackcurrant bush to infuse your compote, as they have a wonderful floral, aromatic flavour..

Blackcurrant and pistachio Swiss roll

Ingredients

2 eggs

50g caster sugar

50g plain flour

20g unsalted butter, melted

½tsp vanilla bean paste

Pinch of salt

200g blackcurrants

2 tbsp caster sugar, plus more to taste

50g pistachios

1 tbsp caster sugar

200ml double cream

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C.

Line a 16 x 28cm Swiss roll tin with baking parchment.

Blitz the pistachios with the tablespoon of caster sugar in a small food processor or using a pestle and mortar.

Place the blackcurrants and 2 tablespoons of caster sugar into a small pan and cook gently until the skins split and the juices begin to run. Taste and adjust the sweetness, if necessary, then chill in the fridge.

Mix the eggs and sugar together in a bowl and whisk with a hand mixer until the mixture is pale, fluffy and approximately tripled in volume. This will take about 5 minutes.

Sift the flour and salt into the egg mixture and carefully fold together with a spatula or metal spoon. Drizzle in the melted butter and fold again until incorporated.

Transfer the mixture to the Swiss roll tin and bake for 10 minutes, or until the sponge is lightly golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.

Place a sheet of baking parchment on your worktop and scatter over the pistachio and sugar mixture. Carefully turn out the warm sponge onto it, then roll the parchment and sponge up together into a Swiss roll shape. It’s important to do this while the sponge is still warm to avoid cracking.

Allow the sponge to cool completely.

Gently whip the cream to soft peaks.

Unroll the Swiss roll and fill with the whipped cream and blackcurrant compote, then carefully roll it back up. Scatter over any remaining pistachio and sugar mixture to finish.

Sam Lomas is the head chef and founder of Briar restaurant in Bruton: numberonebruton.com/briar