'I think I’ve got three groups in now, specifically to come and look,’ Deborah Collinge, licensee of The Albert pub in Hebden Bridge, tells me, as we talk about Sally Wainwright’s new drama, Riot Women.
The town is back in the spotlight thanks to the series.
‘Have you watched Riot Women?’ seems to be the question on everyone’s lips, and I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve asked, ‘Which episode are you on!?’ or, ‘What did you think of THAT bit?’
The BBC show, about a group of menopausal women who form a punk rock band, has just aired when I visit the Calder Valley town, so after a scenic drive ‘over the tops’, I park my car and head to where all the action happens.
Stepping through the doors of the character-filled pub, which was used as ‘The Duke’ in the series, Deborah welcomes me for a chat, and she doesn’t seem surprised by the huge amount of interest the show has generated.
It was the same when cameras rolled in Hebden Bridge for Happy Valley, also created by Wainwright.
The pub was used for both interior and exterior shots in Riot Women. The kitchen where you see Jess (played by Lorraine Ashbourne) and her family bicker around the dining table? That’s Deborah’s living room.
‘I think it’s going to be very positive, it’s good for Hebden,’ she tells me when I ask her about the impact of filming in the town.
‘It’s always been used for filming, Sally’s a big fan, she knows the area. She does wonders, I think, for Hebden Bridge and the tourist trade.’
A sign on the main road saying ‘500 years of creativity’ welcomes visitors. The town is known for its quirkiness and the diverse characters who have made their home there, so it’s fitting that Wainwright chose Hebden Bridge as the setting for a series about women defying convention.
As well as its draw for film and television crews (Wainwright told the audience at the show’s premiere, ‘It’s just so beautiful here’), there’s a sense of community.
Every noticeboard I find is packed with flyers advertising groups, events, and exhibitions. It feels like you’d never run out of interesting things to do or see. With its own independent cinema – The Hebden Bridge Picture House – plus a theatre and long-standing music venue, The Trades Club, there’s plenty for culture vultures to fill their boots with.
St George’s Square sits at the heart of Hebden Bridge, surrounded by cool cafes, restaurants, bars, and shops, and is home to the market, which runs from Thursday to Sunday. The town hall, buzzing with people, is nearby. It's the sort of place you imagine you'd always get a warm welcome.
The Rochdale Canal offers a peaceful, picturesque walking or cycling spot, while the rail station, just a short walk from the town centre, links Hebden Bridge with both sides of the Pennines, making it an attractive spot for commuters.
According to Rightmove, house prices had an overall average of £256,721 over the last year, six per cent down on the previous year but one per cent up on the 2021 peak of £253,969.
Town life
Lindsey Johanson, Dragonfly Boutique
'Most of the shops in are independent, so that’s lovely,' Lindsey, who has lived in Hebden Bridge for six years, says.
'It’s very picturesque and very eclectic. People are very grounded, and you get all kinds of different people. I think that’s to do with its hippy roots.
'It gets really busy at weekends, it’s like a little festival out there sometimes, when you’ve got a busker and everyone’s joining in and dancing.
'It’s a nice little spot - to be in the square. It’s very unique as a town.'
And Lindsey's recommendation for a day in Hebden Bridge?
She says: 'If it’s a nice day, a walk along the canal is lovely. I’d probably go to a nice coffee shop, get some cake or lunch, go for a walk, and probably end up at COIN because it’s really nice in there.
'The town hall is worth a visit as well.
'It’s very community-driven, as you would imagine.
'Sometimes they have artists featured in there, there are things going on, and you feel a sense of community, like anyone’s welcome in there anytime.
'The food is pretty good as well.'
A haven of independent shopping
In a climate where the high street is struggling, one of the stand-out features of Hebden Bridge is the number of independent shops you can explore throughout the town. Head to St George’s Square, where you’ll find the delightful Dragonfly Boutique.
Once you enter this chic store, you won’t want to leave without snapping up some new pieces for your wardrobe. On Bridge Gate, men’s designer store Frank & Jasper is worth a visit, before heading to Market Street.
Start at Heart Gallery in The Arts Centre. Filled with beautiful prints, wall art, sculptures, jewellery, and homeware, it’s a treasure trove, particularly if you’re looking for a gift for someone special.
Elsewhere on Market Street is Bean and Bemble. If you’re a lover of colour and bold prints, you’ll adore this new addition to Hebden Bridge.
Stunning jewellery and watches can be found at long-standing business Element, while avid readers will love stepping through the doors of The Book Case.
If a home project is on your mind, Drew Forsyth & Co and Wood and Wire offer bespoke kitchens and furniture. A walk along the canal will take you to Hebble End Works, home to artists, makers, and a courtyard café.
Explore the outdoors
For those who love to explore the great outdoors, Hebden Bridge is a fantastic base, especially if you’re looking to blow off the cobwebs in the post-Christmas lull.
The National Trust-run Hardcastle Crags is a superb place to visit. You’ll find more than 400 acres of unspoilt woodland and stunning views after a climb up to the Crags, which give the site its name.
It also makes the ideal walk for those with four-legged friends, as it’s a three pawprint-rated destination. This means it's designated by the National Trust as one of the very best places you can visit for a day with your dog.
The rugged valley is also home to Gibson Mill, a 19th-century cotton mill. It houses regular exhibitions as well as the Weaving Shed Café. It’s open seven days a week from April to November, and Friday to Sunday during the winter months.
Amble along the Rochdale Canal and take in the picturesque scenery, or if you’re looking for something more challenging, venture from Hebden Bridge to Heptonstall. Be warned, it’s a steep walk, but you’ll find the historic village fascinating.
Experienced walkers looking for fantastic scenery will find plenty to appreciate in the walk from Hebden Bridge to Haworth.
Three places to eat in Hebden Bridge
COIN
Head to COIN for natural wine, small plates, craft beer, and cocktails in a stylish setting. COIN featured in The Good Food Guide’s 100 Best Local Restaurants in both 2023 and 2024. A must visit.
Squeeze Café & Deli
From breakfast classics to delicious salads, filled bagels, sandwiches, and wraps, Squeeze has an extensive menu (with the choice to take food to go) which features plenty of options for vegetarian and vegan diners.
Fratelli of Hebden
With owners who have known each other for years, the restaurant was recently named a Good Food Award 2025/26 winner. Delve into bruschetta boards, small plates, pasta, and pizza – pooches can even have a ‘Doggy Spag Bol’.
