Trollers Gill
Are you ready to find out all about the most legendary family-friendly walks in the Yorkshire Dales National Park? After all, with Halloween on the horizon it feels appropriate to walk in the footsteps (or should I say paw-prints) of an iconic local legend. But there is one thing you can be certain of on this adventure, it is thoroughly spooky. Watch your head, we’re headed into troll territory.
If you know of Wharfedale, then you’ll probably recognise its familiar favourites, like the picturesque village of Burnsall and nearby Bolton Abbey. But take a peek between the two and you’ll find the tiny hamlet of Skyreholme, nestled at the foot of Barden Fell, below the rocky outcrop of the popular hiking trail on Simon’s Seat. This unassuming spot is the start of our Halloween adventure.
Lovely views of Wharfedale
Cross the stile next to Skyreholme Beck and you’ll see the faded painted sign, telling us that this is the way ‘to the gill’ and so onwards we go. Who’s brave enough?
OK, I’ve set the scene ‒ there’s a hint of troll, there may or may not be giant paw prints involved, but what on earth is going to get your tribe excited about the prospect of walking? Admittedly, we aren’t getting a play park on this adventure, but how about a hefty dose of magic? There are also brownies… and maybe ice cream, too.
After trotting along Skyreholme Beck aside the curated gardens of Parcevall Hall, the limestone landscape opens out, creating a rugged and wild place for some legendary beasties to live. This was once a thriving mining area, but it’s also caving territory and that is precisely why it has a magic beck.
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As you reach the bottom of the gill, the water quite literally appears from nowhere. Why? In normal circumstances, Trollers Gill forms the base of a mostly dry, rocky stream bed, providing an excellent scramble through the gorge. In very wet weather, the water reappears and forms a series of cascades.
The scientific explanation is that this limestone rock is soluble in water. Over time it dissolves, allowing the water to escape through holes and cracks, creating the cave systems that run under the surface of the gill. In wet weather, these fill up and the water reappears on the surface, but usually the stream runs hidden underground, reappearing at the base.
In search of mysterious beasts
Stories tell us that it was given its name because it is home to some mischievous trolls, who enjoy hurling rocks onto passers-by. But whilst stone chucking trolls might pique your interest it is the demon dog, or ‘Barghest’, who is the real star of the show.
This legend was described in a poem written at the beginning of the 19th century. It tells of a man heading off to seek out the legendary beast who, after conjuring up the demon dog with its razor-sharp teeth and glowing saucer-like eyes, met a grizzly end.
See why this is great for Halloween?
Some have drawn parallels between the Barghest and the fictional Hound of the Baskervilles. Arthur Conan Doyle’s mum grew up nearby in Masongill, and as a keen storyteller herself, would certainly have heard about this terrifying canine, perhaps inspiring her son to create a similar character.
Make sure you keep your eyes peeled for troll holes too! This area used to be the Gill Head fluorspar mine, which operated into the 20th century. Because of this, there are several areas of the mines that are still intact and whilst they’re not ones to enter, they are almost certainly the hiding places for the beasts of Trollers Gill!.
Eat & drink
I promised you brownies and ice cream! So try the tearoom at Parcevall Hall, which is run by Love Brownies, or visit the main cafe just down the road in Howgill, where you’ll also find ice cream and tasty treats. But if a pub is more your thing, try the nearby Craven Arms at Appletreewick for some excellent cosy pub grub and a roaring fire.
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