Candia McKormack escapes for two nights of stargazing in the Warwickshire countryside and is pampered something rotten
It’s the last full moon of the spring. The sky is a clear cobalt blue turning to the deepest indigo. The only sounds to be heard are those of the creatures of a Cotswold country night.
I could be sleeping in a regular bedroom – you know, four walls and all – and be missing this. Instead, I’m alone on a balmy spring evening in a geodesic dome feeling enveloped by the Warwickshire night sky. The bed’s a beautifully comfortable circular affair, the bedlinen is the perfect night-time balance of coolness and warmth... but will I sleep? Will I heck as like; I don’t want to miss a thing.
Staying for a couple of nights at Bob’s Lodge based at Winchcombe Farm (please don’t confuse ‘Winchcombe’ with the town near Cheltenham as I nearly did and head for Belas Knap), is an absolute treat. The working farm – and home to Steve and Jo – is a balm-for-the-soul holiday retreat comprising six very distinctive and individual lodges, featuring hot tubs, hammocks, pizza ovens, creature comforts aplenty... and those game-changing geodesic domes.
The farm, set on the edge of the Cotswolds in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, is home to the five-star family-run retreat, set beneath the famous battlefield landmark of Edgehill. Though described as ‘glamping’, the lodges are a world away from camping pods and bell tents, with large smart TVs, king-size beds in stylish and well-equipped rooms, SMEG appliances in the kitchen, controllable lighting and tri-fold doors opening onto decking to take in the rolling landscape beyond.
Bob’s Lodge sleeps eight and, as there were only four of us staying – myself, husband Tony and friends Ro and Anna – we had our choice of the four bedrooms. Ro and Anna were able to spread out on the whole of the top floor – complete with two bedrooms, family bathroom and really neat children’s area with its own TV and games’ box – while I immediately plumped for the geodesic dome; and Tony, who wasn’t sure if the March Warwickshire nights would be warm enough for dome-sleeping (Tony – I’ll stop going on about what you missed out soon... I promise), took the master suite on the ground floor.
The location of the farm lends itself to exploring the North Cotswolds and Oxfordshire, with Banbury, Shipston-on-Stour, Stratford-upon-Avon and Hook Norton all on the doorstep. The charming village of Upper Tysoe itself is a joy to explore, with its thatched cottages and surrounding countryside. We spent an enjoyable afternoon on one of the recommended circular walks, taking in Tudor manor Compton Wynyates and the dramatic 18th-century, 12-sided windmill set atop a hill... the climb is a commitment, but worth doing.
Winchcombe Farm also works with other local businesses to offer add-on luxury extras, including concierge, pampering, gin delivery, floral decorations, wedding planning and a fine dining private chef service. Oh, yes. As part of our welcome pack, we were gifted a beautiful fresh fruit cake made by White Hyacinth Cake Design of Shipston-on-Stour, and it tasted even better than it looked.
During our stay – and after our enthusiastic climb to Tysoe Windmill to build up an appetite – Richard Bramble of Bramble Dining came to the lodge and spoilt us rotten. As he beavered away happily in the kitchen, we were served drinks by a waitress, and were feeling beautifully relaxed when the time came to serve the food.
Richard talked us through each of our beautifully prepared and delicious-tasting courses, which included an appetiser of chicory leaf with caramelised beetroot and goats’ cheese before piling into starters of smoked duck breast with green herb mayonnaise; calamari with pepper and paprika coating; and wild mushroom and chestnut pâté. After refreshing our palates with homemade lemon sorbet, our mains consisted pan-fried wild sea bass fillet, and chicken breast with dauphinoise potato; followed by classic chocolate brownie served with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream. I know, I know... I’m reliving it right now.
Other highlights of the stay had to be meeting the farm’s resident curious and very friendly alpacas and ponies, luxuriating in the seven-man hot tub – complete with colour-changing lights – and gazing at the night sky through the dome’s own telescope.
But, amid all that luxury and pampering, one of the biggest joys for me was tapping into my inner child – which, admittedly is never too far from the surface – and sliding down the four-metre slide from the main deck to the garden. I may have done it more than once.
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Bramble Dining is a family-run business, based near Leamington Spa in Warwickshire. With a passion for food, Richard and Claudia Bramble wanted to create a company where they could share that passion with other people and still find time for family. At the heart of the business are great ingredients, exceptional dishes and the best service for customers.
With a choice of three five-course menu options, catering for meat and fish lovers, vegans and vegetarians as well as younger diners, they bring top restaurant-quality dining to your kitchen. And when they’ve finished pampering you, they promise to leave your kitchen as they found it – and will even do the dishes!
