Digest this mini-review in 60 seconds
Venue
Splendid black-and-white pile which looks like a Tudor mansion, but isn’t as old as it seems. The Wild Boar Hotel was built in 1886 for John Naylor, a Warrington timber merchant (hence all the timber, presumably) as a country house within sight of the remains of Beeston Castle. It’s been extended over the years, converted into a school and then a country house restaurant with rooms. The picturesque setting makes it a favourite for weddings.
Menu
A good mix of belly-filling staples (soup and pâté starters, steak and chunky chips, fish and chips, pie and mash, ribs with sticky sauce) and more ‘cheffy’ concoctions such as teriyaki duck breast with noodles and Asian salad, cajun monkfish with prosciutto ham and a salmon supreme with a seafood broth and lemon-scented oil.
A starter of smoked chicken, Nantwich blue cheese, walnut and sun-blushed tomato salad with chive oil and balsamic (£6.95) was a good combination of strong flavours, all working nicely in concert. Sizeable portion, too. The chicken liver pate (£5.75) came with breadcrisps and, offsetting the deep mustiness of the pâté, a fresh and feisty bowl of tomato and apple chutney, all evidently home-made.
A poached salmon main course with peppered new potatoes, asparagus, samphire and hollandaise sauce (£15.95) was done to perfection, and a roast lamb rump with twice-baked cheese soufflé, redcurrant and mint gravy (£16.95) was subtle and delicious. A side order of chunky chips (£2.50) resembled juicy Jenga pieces. Coconut ice cream in a brandy basket (£5.75) rounded the meal off nicely.
Decor and ambience
Considering the mock-Tudor grandeur of the exterior, the brasserie restaurant is surprisingly modern, with light wood flooring, floral print wallpaper and contemporary furnishing.
Service
Very solicitous young waiting staff. Full marks.
Cost
£76 - good value.
The Brasserie Restaurant
The Wild Boar Country House Hotel
Whitchurch Road,
Tarporley
CW6 9NW
01829 260309
www.wildboarhotel.com
Louise Allen-Taylor
