Digest this mini review in 60 seconds.

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VENUE

A Spanish restaurant concentrating on tapas, but offering a more sophisticated setting than the usual tapas bar. You can have dishes as and when they’re ready (as in traditional tapas bars) or go for the classic starter and main course timetable. We chose the latter.

MENU

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For starters my dining companion and I shared three delicious plates: croqueta de jamon (creamy potato with smokey ham, £7.95), lagrimas de pollo (chicken strips in a spicey honey sauce, £6.75) and patatas bravas (the classic fried potato plus three dips, £5.75). Our main courses proved just as satisfying: he enjoyed bistec de ternera (steak in a truffle and mushroom sauce, £18.95) which he declared ‘brilliant’. I tucked into brocheta bacalao (cod pieces and king prawns on skewers, £19.85) which was mild, pleasing after the highly flavoured starters and a side order of patatas salteadas (garlicky new potatoes, £3.25). I was too full for dessert -although the selection was tempting - but he demolished mousse triple choc (£5.75) which reminded him of a tiramisu cake.

The beers and wine list is good. We enjoyed a bottle of Carballal Albarino, a rich, ripe white wine, £31.

DECOR AND AMBIENCE

Sophisticated, light and airy. Striking yellow leather seating - booths and sofas - dominate the decor. The ceiling is high and there’s a pleasant pale grey slate effect to the walls. Very fetching.

SERVICE

Charming waitress service with classy touches.

COST

Slightly on the pricey side, but justified by the setting and service. The bill with coffees came to £110.

2 Ridgefield off King Street, Manchester, M2 6EQ

0161 833 9019 www.labandera.co.uk