We rvisit Dilli Restaurant, Altrincham and a mini review of La Casa Vecchia, Sandbach

It was the late former Foreign Secretary Robin Cook that, in 2001, hailed chicken tikka massala as ‘a true British national dish’. The remarks caused a furore at the time but Cook got it right: CTM was ‘invented’ in Britain. There are any number of curry house claimants to the recipe from Birmingham to Glasgow – but one thing is for sure: it’s got little to do with India.

It’s curious then that the national passion for ‘going for an Indian’ more often than not doesn’t remotely involve an Indian meal or, come to that, an Indian restaurant. Around 85 per cent of so-called Indian restaurants in the UK are, in fact Bangladeshi owned: along Manchester’s famous ‘Curry Mile’, Pakistani restaurants are dominant. That’s not to say they don’t do a good job, after all they are enduringly popular...but authentic sub-continental cuisine? Mmmm.

That’s why when Dilli opened in the centre of Altrincham a little under a decade ago, it caused such a stir and won national critical acclaim by serving authentic dishes from all over the sub-continent. There is no such thing as national Indian cuisine. Like the French, whose regional dishes vary according to local ingredients (Normandy cooks with butter; Provence with oil), India offers incredible variety. After all it’s 2,000 miles north to south.

Mohammed Naeem’s menu reflects this. As the chef director, he began at Dilli by introducing dishes from his home area around Lucknow, the capital city of Uttapradesh. Since then he has expanded the range to less well-known states like Chettinad, Mangalore and Pondicherry and added street food from places like Kolkata, Andhra, Konkan, Tamil Nadu, Nizam and Maharashtra area of Mumbai. Vegetarians are royally catered for. It makes for an exciting culinary journey.

The welcome is warm and informative as soon as one crosses the restaurant threshold and it’s evident that the staff are long-time friends of many loyal customers. Earthy shades of red and brown dominate the decor with filigree carved wooden panels and unclad wooden tables. The menus could do with a reprint, but it’s the food that does the talking here.

We started conventionally enough with a basket of pappadums and a trio of dips (�2.20) before exploring the culinary geography. To begin we shared Prawn Rubian (�7.95) and Adraki Lamb Chops (�7.95) inspired by the north and south of the sub-continent respectively.

The former comprised a trio of giant prawns that had been marinated in yoghurt, mace and saffron, butterflied and baked on skewers in a searing tandoor oven. The flavour, lifted by slight charring of the shells from which they slipped easily, was exquisite and the meaty texture was akin to lobster.

The three generously proportioned lamb chops, prepared in a ginger flavoured marinade before being committed to the fiery furnace were juicy, tender and subtly spiced.

We shared main courses too: Thaaravua roast (�12.95), a dish originating in Chettinad in India’s far south, comprised breast of duck pot roasted with coriander, cumin and garlic and finished with pepper powder, delivered a satisfying chilli kick, but offered lovely, rich and spicy depth.

The duck itself, cooked for longer than western convention, nonetheless afforded good flavour. The second main, Goan Prawn Pulao (�10.95) from the former Portuguese enclave on India’s west coast, was prettily presented in a pot and the fine basmati rice was well populated with fleshy prawns cooked with green chilli and fragrant cinnamon. The rice dish obviated the need for more rice; instead we shared excellent, light, garlic naan (�2.25).

The wine list is limited but reasonable. After a couple of Cobra beers (�3.25 each) we chose an Italian Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (�15.95) that packed enough fruity oomph to compliment the spicy duck.

Dilli Restaurant,60 Stamford New Road,Altrincham WA14 1EE.Tel: 0161 929 7484www.dilli.co.uk

Meal in a minute

Digest this mini-review in 60 seconds

La Casa Vecchia4 Old Market SquareSandbach, CW11 1ATTel 01270 761077www.lacasavecchia.co.uk

Style of venueA cosy neighbourhood Italian restaurant that Sandbach residents can be deservedly excited about.

On the menuWhat you would expect of a good local Italian eaterie and we were really impressed by choices on the blackboard and the abundance of fish. Generous side portions, a fair vegetarian selection and a decent wine list. We must get a taxi next time.

DecorThis former shop has been pleasantly refurbished with an Italian feel: a striking mural of Venice fills one wall and wrought iron trellis room dividers work well. It’s a small space but, thankfully, diners are not elbow to elbow with neighbouring tables.

AmbienceCosy in a continental way.

ServiceWarm, friendly and efficient.

CostGood value. Special deals are available but two of us dined a la carte and enjoyed a three course dinner with wine and coffees for �77.

Louise Allen-Taylor