Convert a pub building in a small Sussex market town to a modern Japanese restaurant? It sounds like madness but it’s anything but, as Alice Cooke found out when she visited Wabi in Horsham

I grew up not far from Horsham and happen to know that the building where Wabi now sits used to be a proper pub. Bar, ale, tables – no frills, job done. So when I heard that a contemporary Japanese restaurant was opening up shop there, I was surprised to say the least. But open up it did, back in 2010, and then again in 2014 after a refurbishment, and by all accounts it’s been a roaring success. My friends have been particularly enthusiastic about ladies’ nights on Tuesdays – three courses and a cocktail for £22, you can’t scoff at that. Unless you’re not a lady of course, in which case scoff away.

On a wintry Thursday evening the place was buzzing but not busy – you walk off the street into a chic bar that wouldn’t look out of place in London. The design is based on an Izakaya, a traditional Japanese fusion of restaurant and bar. There is also an outside seating area, but the Sussex climate doesn’t really allow us to take advantage of that at this time of year. We sat down in front of a screen that showed a revolving carousel of Japanese images, facing a funky looking living wall of greenery – we were told it was a sort of Romanesco Veronica cauliflower, but it looked uncannily like broccoli to me. A talking point either way!

The cocktails are simply delicious. I’m unsure how to rave about them as much as I’d like to without sounding like I might have some sort of alcohol dependence, but they really are yummy. Taste aside, the bar staff are both friendly and professional, and took great care with the presentation of each offering.

Upstairs in the restaurant the theme of warm service with obvious know-how continued. I am happy to confess that my knowledge of Japanese cuisine is limited at best, but far from being patronised or befuddled, I was guided through the extensive menu with clarity and care.

As well as the traditional sashimi (rice and raw fish) dishes that I was expecting, there was a wealth of local meat served in contemporary Japanese styles – this ranged from venison and chicken to lamb and scallops, with plenty in between, all fantastically prepared and flavoured.

Honestly, the food was fantastic. That’s no surprise really, when you consider that the restaurant is the brainchild of Andre Cachia and Scott Hallsworth, the latter of whom is the former head chef of Nobu London, famous for its Michelin-starred Japanese food (and also an incident involving Boris Becker and a broom cupboard, but that’s a different story). Wabi means remote from society, which I suppose compared to the London offering this is, but for us Sussex folk it’s perfectly placed.

Now back to the food – there were a range of desserts on offer, but I really couldn’t manage any having completely over-indulged on the lovingly-prepared meat dishes, none of which would have looked out of place on a city plate. The red meats were tender and succulent, while all the fish was fresh and light, and the vast array of sauces that they came in, which ranged from ponzu (a tangy, citrus-based dip) and soy to miso and chilli, were each more delicious than the last. Each arrived on its own slate or wooden creation, which were smart without being too fussy. The AA rosette that this place earned itself this year is well deserved, put it that way.

I will definitely be returning, and I would recommend this place to anyone wanting something a bit different, with the sort of service that we’re fast coming to expect as standard here in Sussex.

38 East Street, Horsham 01403 788140; www.wabi.co.uk

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