Digest this mini review in 60 seconds.

Venue: Characterful restaurant in the former Ice Plant building in trendy Ancoats offering virtually all-day dining and drinking. There’s a laid-back vibe that’s perfect for this neighbourhood, but plenty of hard work goes into creating the excellent food.

Menu: Have a coffee or a healthy shot of juice at brunch time, a hearty vegan lunch or choose from the eclectic menu of small plates and bigger dishes. I loved lemon paprika chicken skewer with smoked chilli salsa (£5) followed by a delicious maple and soy-glazed cod with soba noodles and pak choi (£16.50). Also munched enthusiastically on my table were blistered padron peppers with pink salt (£4) baked almond chicken Katsu with wild rice and edamame coconut currry sauce (£14) and bone broth beef ramen with brisket, spinach, radish sprouts and chilli (£13.50). My dessert of coconut yogurt cheesecake (£6) was fab!

Decor and ambience: Urbane modern, friendly.

Cost: Eat or drink as little or as much as you choose. It’s all fairly priced. Give the cocktails a go.

The Counter House, 35 Blossom Street, Manchester, M4 6AJ. 0161 414 0065, thecounterhouse.co.uk