A Cheshire hotel where many of the guests share a particular passion
What a view! We drive through the wrought iron gates of the Macdonald Portal Hotel near Tarporley and laid before us in the far distance, like a green and russet tapestry, is the Cheshire plain, with the big dish of Jodrell Bank winking at us.
But the near distance is all manicured greenery. It’s golf, indeed more golf than you could shake a caddy full of sticks at. For the Portal boasts three courses – 18-hole Championship and Premier courses, plus the nine-hole Arderne course - an indoor golf academy, resident professionals, pro shop, the lot. And in the spring sunshine, the golfers are out in force.
The hotel itself is relentlessly modern, in sandy brick and with acres of glass the better to exploit that view over the plain.
There are three reasons to come to the Portal, aside from that view. The first is golf. But if you are of the Mark Twain persuasion (that golf is a good walk ruined), you may want to visit the Spa.
The Spa is definitely a good reason to visit. I was pampered, massaged and soothed by a Decleor Aroma Ultimate Massage amd Facial for the best part of two hours. Under the capable fingertips of therapist Sarah I emerged relaxed and glowing from my time in this top class beauty salon. I will be back soon with a couple of female friends for a reviving girlie weekend break.
The third reason to visit would be the food, served up in the Ranulf restaurant, enjoying that view across the Cheshire plain but boasting of Macdonald’s Scottish heritage at every opportunity. The beef comes, says the menu, from finest Scottish herds ‘naturally reared on mineral rich grass’ and black pudding not from Bury but from Stornoway. Salmon is from John Ross Jnr in Aberdeen.
From the à la carte menu, my starter was a pressing of ham hock with home-made piccalilli (£6). A bit of a star turn, it came with flakey ham and a toasted slice of white bread on a slate with a tiny Kilner jar of piccalilli in the centre. A good piccalilli should make your salivary glands wince with expectation, but should not then pickle the taste buds with too much acidity. This sweet little sauce was perfect.
My partner chose goats’ cheese panna cotta (£6.50) which merited full marks for taste and texture.
Onto the mains, and I chose one of the Macdonald signature dishes of braised shin of Scottish beef with herb mash, confit onions and thyme jus. This little hillock of beef had, our waiter proudly confided, been cooked in a mould for 24 hours. The result was a lusciously tender and intensely flavoured meat.
Across the table, grilled lemon sole (£16.90) was much enjoyed, cooked to perfection with a subtle astringency to the sauce.
We rounded things off with lovely iced lemon parfait (£6.50) and a selection of ice cream (£6.75) which, naturally enough, came all the way from Arran.
Louise Allen-Taylor was a guest of the Macdonald Portal Hotel, Cobblers Cross Lane, Tarporley, Cheshire, CW6 0DJ.
The hotel has various offers including golf breaks - two rounds of golf, room, breakfast and a three-course dinner – from £99 per person, and Summer Sparkle Spa Days from £55 per person.
For details call 0844 879 9082 or go to www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk
