Our Editor selects his choice of the best places to dine in the coming months.
Scott Paton and his menus have graced these pages many a time and why not, given the genius with food he is capable of? I am pleased to say his latest iteration is on point and as good as ever...he has to be operating one of the finest restaurants in Devon, if not the wider South West.
That restaurant is Àclèaf, Boringdon Hall’s 4-Rosette restaurant, which has just launched an all-new nine-course tasting menu which has been carefully curated by head chef Scott and team. The new menu is underpinned by Scott’s “truth with elegance” food philosophy, letting the quality seasonal produce, sourced as locally as possible, speak for itself.
The incredible value menu takes guests on a nine-step gastronomic journey, with plenty of surprises on the way. Simply written, to add to guest anticipation, sample dishes from the exciting menu include the likes of pain perdu, aged Parmesan, maple, crab, grapefruit, pepper/Iberico, yuzu, chamomile/Wagyu, tarragon, marrow and chocolate, miso, hazelnut, with influences from across the globe.
Certainly, after our recent visit our tastebuds and senses were assailed and assaulted (in a good way!) leaving us gasping in admiration and the talents on show. A nine-course tasting menu might, to some, seem like a daunting prospect, but that’s not the case here. Tiny, melt-in-the-mouth courses leave you raving at the flavours and textures packed into a single bite. This menu truly is a journey...and one which leave you with lasting memories of a chef at the top of his game.
The menu can also be enjoyed with a wine flight and of course Boringdon Hall, with its beautiful buildings and amazing spa, could be your hotel for the night. Seek out Scott and share in his talents soon...this is a dining experience which deserves every plaudit it receives.
Bay of plenty
Think of the phrase ‘hidden gem’ when considering the Torbay’s Brasserie at the Bay and double it. What would that be? Hidden ‘gems’? Hidden ‘gems and gold doubloons’? I’m not sure what would do this lovely restaurant justice when describing it, so maybe you ought to just pay it a visit and find out for yourself.
Tucked away inside the stylish Meadfoot Bay Hotel away from the seafront in Torquay close enough to the eponymous bay to allow you to get a stroll in before or after dinner, this brasserie needs to be on the visit list of any self-respecting foodie.
Head chef Callum Tasker has spent time in the kitchens of Simon Hulstone at the Michelin-starred Elephant restaurant in Torquay and two years with Mitch Tonks of Rockfish and Seahorse fame and it shows in the brilliance of his menu and the elegant touches he brings to the plates.
But he is also clearly being spurred on to great heights by hotel owner Vicki Osborne and Philip Harnett, who believe in quality and standards in everything they do, having taken over the place four years ago. Word is clearly getting around that this is the place to dine, judging by the packed restaurant we encountered on a recent Saturday night.
We feasted on sea salt crusted beef carpaccio, butter roasted Devon caught scallops, pan roasted day boat stone bass with basil gnocchi, Isle of Wight heritage tomatoes and artichoke fricassée and salsa verde plus roasted Creedy Carver chicken breast, pancetta and spring greens, confit chicken tortellini, grated winter truffle, yeast roasted onion and a rich chicken butter sauce. All were testament to the craft and creativity occurring in the kitchen.
The service team were excellent too across the board, It passed out ‘would we go back’ test too and for the next few days we were evangelising about just how good it was.
The sea’s not the only star
To feature a picture of the great view from a restaurant sometimes feels like one might be damning it with faint praise. It might suggest that okay, the food wasn’t up to much but at least we had a great outlook from where we were dining.
I am glad to say this isn’t the case when it comes Ocean View Dining at the Dome on Plymouth’s Hoe. Yes, the view was stunning, but the food more than matched the surroundings.
Sourcing his ingredients from the best local suppliers and allowing their flavours to take the foreground, head chef Davin Browning has created a series of menus offering Devon delicacies from breakfast to dinner.
The finely balanced menus offer something for everyone - from classic brasserie dining to seafood sharers and a strikingly innovative vegan afternoon tea. Choose from sticky ox cheek or strozzapreti pasta with local asparagus, or maybe try teriyaki dragonfly tofu.
Taking advantage of the building's existing features where possible, the strikingly up-cycled circular bar takes centre stage under the striking glass dome in the opulent Art Deco interior - with echoes of a grand ocean liner to enhance the sense of place. It provides the stage for you to just sit back, relax and enjoy the view whilst dining in style.
New hotel spot is a winner
And while we are talking about great views, you can’t help but expect something pretty spectacular from a restaurant which calls itself The View. And why wouldn’t you if the eaterie in question is eight floors up on the top of Exeter’s newest hotel, the Courtyard by Marriott, adjacent to Sandy Park rugby ground.
The new hotel is already a landmark addition to the city’s skyline and the restaurant and bar area on the top floor makes full use of the elevation to offer sweeping views across Exeter and East Devon, including a spectacular beam right down the Exe estuary to Exmouth.
What is extra pleasing about this place is that amazing view is backed up by fabulous food and superb service. Forget what you might think about this being a ‘chain’ hotel restaurant – the team here truly care about diners and the menu backs that up.
Think twisted prawn cocktail mixing with West Country seafood bisque for starters, then rump of Cornish lamb or wild mushroom crusted roast salsify for main courses and you get some idea of the offering there.
Or why not just take the lift up to and sip on a cocktail or two whilst drinking in ‘that’ view?
