For those of you that don’t know, Dawlish is the bit on the train journey between Paddington and Penzance which goes right beside the seaside. In the past, that’s been problematic. Huge waves often washed over the line during bad weather, cutting off the South West’s arterial railway route, while providing great storm pictures for the world. An £80 million, government-funded sea wall has sorted most of that out. The structure, along with 415 metres of new promenade finally opened to the public in 2023 to the delight of the locals who had been waiting a while to see the results of this protective transformation.
It means Dawlish can relax more easily into its prime coastal location, always a source of wonder for me as a kid. Seeing the sun sparkling on the sea right next to the train window as we buffeted down from London to visit my grandparents in Plymouth felt so exciting. How I wished I could get off the train right there and then to explore the long sandy beach and bucket-and-spade shops. Now that I live just along the coast in Torbay, I can stop off in Dawlish any old time and yet I still don’t do it often enough.
This town is a little gem of a place. Its claim to fame is a flock of black swans, which hang out at the waterfowl complex in Brunswick Place. When I arrived at the start of summer, onlookers were gathering to take pictures of these striking residents, pampering and preening - against a backdrop of digger noise.
Unfortunately, a good part of the middle of Dawlish is currently under construction (until 2026) because of work to improve the town’s storm overflow system and water quality. While not particularly glam, this very visible project can only be a good thing in the long term. Everything around the edges was looking lively, however. Dawlish is a tourist town that knows what the people want. There are gift shops, amusements, full English breakfasts and cream teas for visitors but also enough to sustain the cheery residents (the sun was shining, admittedly). Those that had moved to Dawlish from ‘up country’ said they should have done it earlier. Others were lifelong locals that had seen the town go through ups and downs but praised its village vibe that kept the community tight knit (but not cliquey). One young couple and their family were just a day away from opening their new brasserie The Wild Swan (more below) and said local support had already been great. Businesses such as this will keep Dawlish thriving and lived-in during the quieter winter months. This town can weather any storm.
The Wild Swan brasserie is a recent addition to Dawlish. Sam and Lee Tomas opened their restaurant, wine and cocktail bar after weeks of hard graft getting it ready before the big launch in May. It’s been a real family affair with their children, aged 12 and 10 pitching in with the preparations, along with grandparents and friends. The menu includes homecooked dishes, inspired by the couple’s Catalonian heritage, as well as French, Japanese, Greek and US influences.
Sam is front of house while Lee, who used to have a job that took him all over the world, is ‘cheffing’, as he puts it. He’s looking forward to his career change and being able to ‘bring something different’ to Dawlish.
THREE TO SEE
Dawlish Town Beach extends to Red Rock (Langstone Rock) a mile away at Dawlish Warren. The long, sandy/shingle shoreline is lovely to walk along, whatever the weather. If you’re after adventure, head to Dawlish Warren beach. As well as the sand dunes and conservation areas, there are lots of fun-filled amusements and rides.
Swanning about
Dawlish has one of the largest populations of black swans in the UK. There are records of the birds being on The Brook in the early 20th century. After dying out, they were reintroduced in the late 1940s. The town council’s waterfowl wardens, along with volunteers, look after the swans.
Country escape
Not a lot of people know this but there’s a 65-acre park of open countryside, just off the Exeter Road into town. The site, popular with dog walkers, has a fenced dog-training area, barbecue zone, community orchards and great views. Look out for skylarks and cirl bunting, if you’re really lucky.
Embrace the seaside charm and load up on holiday fodder – ice cream, pasties, fish and chips, bonbons – you can easily eat like an eight-year-old here. What fun.
Gay’s Creamery (no sniggering) is a haven of traditional treats. This Dawlish institution on Brunswick Place is celebrating 100 years in the business of ice-cream, cream teas, pies, beers and more. Their signature dish is a generous scoop of ice-cream, topped with clotted cream.
Just along the street is The Old Mill tearoom, which has a lovely sunny courtyard garden looking out onto the brook. A friend and I once had a cake-based lunch in here.
John’s (The Strand) is another family-run Dawlish institution. A generous portion of outside seating makes this a great spot to people-watch in the sunshine, while enjoying an ‘ansome breakfast. Loyal fans of the largest offering, known as the ‘Mighty One’ can get their tenth breakfast for free. Now there’s a challenge.
Local produce, French pastries, boxes of delicious homemade salads – it’s hard to walk past Le Cygnerie delicatessen. I couldn’t. I had one of their sourdough toasties and a tea to go. They also have a café next door, called Le Cygne, where you can sit and order all of the above.
On The Strand, you’ve got Ryder’s Bakery with loads of freshly baked treats. The Wee Shoppe Bakery had some gorgeously sticky-looking iced buns in the window. Poppadums is a little Aladdin’s cave of health foods and supplements.
Out towards Dawlish Warren is Forest Fungi (Warren Road). The gourmet mushroom growers have ‘shroom rooms’ on site, as well as a cafe and shop, selling their fungi, but also a range of local products from Devon’s top growers and producers.
The Wild Swan (The Strand) is an exciting new arrival on the evening foodie scene. Other options include Sticky Rice (Lawn Hill), a Thai and Mediterranean restaurant and takeaway. The menu includes a mouthwatering collection of chef’s recommendations, such as ped makam tamarind duck and hor muk, a chicken steamed red curry with beaten egg.
Pubs are fairly plentiful. The Smuggler’s Inn (Teignmouth Road) is on the approach. There’s a carvery on offer every day here. The Brunswick Arms (Brunswick Place) is traditional and central, serving ‘good food and good cheer’. They do a good selection of small plates.
MEET THE LOCALS
Marie runs Luna Rosa, a women’s clothing and homeware shop.
She’s worked here for six years, relocating her business from just up the road a month ago.
‘I don’t know what it is about this town – I can’t put my finger on it – but it’s just got this lovely village community feel to it. There’s everything here that you need and the people are lovely. I make a point of talking to everyone.
‘I live in Torbay but I’ve worked here a long time now and I’ve never been made to feel like an outsider. That’s what the tourists say, too. Everyone is so welcoming.’
Wendy is a lifelong resident. Her grandfather, Bill Selley used to be the local thatcher. Wendy now runs The Puzzled Sweet Shop, home to around 300 jars of retro sweets, hundreds of jigsaws, balloons and more.
‘It’s a very happy business,’ she says. ‘I love seeing the customers and I’m told I have a lot of patience with some of the younger ones!
‘I was born and bred here in Dawlish. This is a lovely town to be in. Of course, things have changed. There used to be shops right the way up to the top of town. There aren’t so many now, but we still have a lovely lot of different independent places.’
WHERE TO STAY
As a well-established tourist town, Dawlish has a good choice of options to suit a range of budgets. Family fave the Langstone Cliff Hotel, Dawlish Warren, overlooks the Exe Estuary and is surrounded by 19-acres of woodland and gardens. The nearest beach is a short walk away via a public footpath. The hotel hosts regular events and entertainments throughout the summer.
Lyme Bay House B&B is centrally placed with family and pet friendly rooms, free parking and disabled facilities.
The Blenheim enjoys a prominent seafront position and most of the rooms have sea views. The 18th century guesthouse has a stylish mix of accommodation, many with original features and kitchenette areas.
Lammas Park house B&B is also near the water and a short walk from the train station. Their Henley Suite is a premium room with a balcony and a super-king bed.
For a self-catering break, try The Yellow House, a mid-terrace, two-bed cottage with enclosed courtyard. Contemporary bolthole St Julien has sea views from the apartment’s open-plan living room. Both properties are available through Coast and Country Cottages.
Cofton Holiday Park is a top choice for a longer break. The site has been part of Dawlish Warren for more than 50 years and caters for everyone, offering kid-friendly stays, fishing holidays and more, Accommodation includes self-catering cottages luxury lodges and static caravans, as well as a campsite. There’s a swimming pool, soft play areas, games arcade, a treetop adventure course. You’ll need another break to recover.
Lady’s Mile is another well-established set-up with a range of accommodation and activities for everyone. They often have offers advertised on their website. You can even get an app.
After a touch of luxury? Stay at Lympstone Manor Hotel, a five-star country house hotel, and get the train to Dawlish for your seaside fix. Lympstone offers fine dining cuisine by Michael Caines MBE, a world-class wine cellar and 28- acres of grounds with a vineyard.
DID YOU KNOW
Dawlish Warren is internationally important for wildlife because of its wide variety of coastal habitats, mobile and fixed dunes, grassland, scrub, ponds, reed bed, 'dune slacks', salt marsh and mudflats. These habitats provide homes for a vast wealth of plants and animals. Around 180 different bird species are recorded here each year.
NOTICE BOARD
Eat:Dawlish
Is on September 13, bringing together the very best local produce and producers for a feasting festival. The free-to-attend event will include farmers’ market faves, plus entertainments and a great festival soundtrack. Eat: Dawlish is part of the award-winning eat:Festivals scheme, set up to celebrate the best of the Westcountry’s food producers.
Feeling fit
Dawlish Triathlon sets off from 7.30am on September 21. Participants will start with a sea swim (there’s a choice of 3,000m, 1,500m or 750m), then it’s onto the bikes for two to three laps of a circuit. The running course uses a footbridge, which keeps runners well away from cyclists.
The Scottish play
Just Macbeth is a production at the Shaftesbury Theatre, Brunswick Place, on September 12 and 13. Audiences young and old will enjoy this particular journey to medieval Scotland for ‘the stupidest version of Shakespeare’s gory tragedy you’re likely to see’. It’s presented by Our Star Theatre Company.
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