Going up north is an adventure for a softy south Devon-er. With enough supplies to last three days, I set off up the M5 and along the (hugely improved) link road, bound for Barnstaple.
As the largest town in a rural region, Barnstaple has had to be a lot of things to a lot of people. Since Saxon times, surrounding communities have relied on this geographical hub for its market, once regularly held in the streets. The town’s pannier market – opened in 1855 – is still at the centre of things today, although locals have now gravitated towards Barnstaple’s well-stocked retail parks for their weekly produce shop. The need for convenience has taken some of the hustle and bustle out of the town centre, but, like many places, Barnstaple is slowly starting to pull people back in.
They’re bigging up the town’s cultural offerings, which includes a theatre, museum with 12 permanent galleries, independent cinema and arts centre. A successful mini art festival was held across all of these venues in the summer, organised by North Devon Council’s Flourishing Barnstaple organisation. Good on them - there’s a lot to work with. Many North Devon visitors probably make the mistake of coming into Barnstaple on a non-beach day when the weather’s a bit grim and the kids are being annoying. It’s then tempting to head to familiar territory and big-name chains (Green Lanes Shopping Centre and the High Street). I was lured in for a while there, but I also had the benefit of some insider info (thanks to Devon Life’s editor, a North Devon resident). She suggested I explore the independents along Bear Street and chat to local legend Gordon Webber, the bike repair man. Now in his eighties, Gordy, as he is officially known, and his huge stack of cycles in various states of repair have been a constant part of Bear Street for more than 60 years.
After Gordy, I popped into Sew@Home and the lovely owners there said I should visit Joy Street afterwards for more independents. I pushed onward to the pannier market and Grade II-listed Butchers Row, a charming haven of units, including an artisan cafe, a cheese shop, bakery and a cool-looking restaurant (Block) that I wish I’d spotted earlier.
The longer I spent in Barnstaple, the more I liked it. Times have been tough here, you can tell. But I live in Torquay and know all about that. I also know that times are changing and there’s meaningful investment happening in our once slightly forgotten towns. North or south, us Devonians have got to stick together. We’re onto a good thing here.
3 TO SEE
History lesson
The Museum of Barnstaple and North Devon is in a handsome and prominent building on The Square. Collections include everything from local geology to contemporary artworks, a pottery collection, plus the regimental collection of the Royal Devon Yeomanry. The collection includes original uniforms and weapons.
Market refurb
The Pannier Market closed in 2023 for around eight months of extensive works to take place as part of the Market Quarter project. The refurb involved improving the roof, guttering and timbers as well as adding glazed doors which lead onto Butchers Row. Today, the bright and busy venue hosts events and festivals, as well as regular market days.
Parks and woods
Barnstaple’s Rock Park offers plenty of space and riverside walks, and there’s also Yeo Valley woodland which recently received a prestigious Green Flag Award. It was created, thanks to the efforts of the local community and conservation groups who worked together to plant thousands of trees and restore the land. The area has also recently installed new oak benches and trim trail equipment.
Business time
Mother and daughter team Debbie and Stacey Ibbotson set up Sew@Home in 2019. The ‘cave of wonders’ in Bear Street sells fabric and haberdashery and also hosts sewing workshops for all ages and abilities. Debbie and Stacey say Barnstaple has a close-knit (!) community. They’re keen to promote Bear Street as a great place to shop, where an eclectic array of independents provides a quirky alternative to the High Street chains.
‘We’ve been here for six years, but we get people coming in every week who say they’ve never been in here before,’ says Stacey. ‘We are a little bit out of the way but it’s well worth exploring this street.’
Where to eat
The cafes and restaurants in the arches along Butchers Row will whet your appetite. I overheard passers-by bigging up Block and have previously read good things about this place. Brunch, lunch, coffee and cake are on offer, but they also do exciting, globally inspired menus on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Just a few units up is Artisarni (geddit?!) for a relaxing coffee, amazing cakes and a top toastie in cool surroundings. Their sister café Artis Too is in Cross Street.
Support North Devon’s amazing produce by breakfasting/lunching at The Boutport Café (Boutport Street). Take on the ‘full Devon’ brekkie or a handcrafted Taw Valley cheddar and chutney sandwich.
Giovanni’s (Boutport Street) is good for a traditional pizza-pasta Italian.
For lunch with a view, head to the riverfront. Tea by the Taw does a mean cream tea, plus sandwiches, soups and light lunches. Not far away is the more recently opened Plant Bar Café (The Strand) for fresh and sustainable dishes, including Buddha bowls, vegan nachos and a gut health protein bowl. And for more tea and cake, in impressive historic surroundings, try Queen Anne’s Cafe, also on The Strand.
Claytons and the Glasshouse (Cross Street) has a glass roofed restaurant and rooftop terrace. Dinner menu highlights include goat curry, Devon rib-eye, venison, plus veggie and vegan options, such as wild mushroom and spinach risotto.
There’s a hidden gem in Maiden Street. Maiden Arch by Robert Bryant recently received three AA Rosettes. Chef/owner Robert is a local lad ‘who wanted to bring something special to his hometown’.
Just along on The Square is a gluten free gem. The Feel Good Larder serves amazing coffee and cake and has a salad bar that’s truly second to none.
The unstoppable march of the Lounge set-ups has reached Barnstaple. Tarko Lounge in Green Lanes shopping centre serves food, cocktails and laid-back retro charm. They’ve got it sussed, this lot. Never been disappointed in a Lounge.
Bar Lush (Boutport Street) is where the party starts. Food, drink and DJ nights are on the menu. They also do VIP party packages if you’re bringing your friends.
Stylish alehouse and eatery Latitude 48 (High Street) is another great choice for a night out with pals. Or they also do a relaxed, family friendly lunch. Well-behaved dogs are welcome, too.
Bottomless brunch can be had at 62. The Bank (Boutport Street). Or if you’re feeling more wholesome, enjoy a ‘rainbow pho’, the team’s fragrant pho broth with soy, chilli and lime marinated tofu. With some cider battered onion rings on the side, maybe…
Meet the locals
Mick Edney, Retired
Mick has lived near Barnstaple for four years after moving to Devon from Surrey.
‘I just love it everything about it here,’ he says. ‘I love the people, the beaches – you’ve got so much choice. We always used to go on holiday to Cornwall and bypass North Devon. Now, I can’t believe we did.’
Gordon ‘Gordy’ Webber, Bicycle repair legend
Octogenarian Gordon Webber has been in Bear Street, mending bikes for over six decades. He was once asked to switch on Barnstaple’s Christmas lights.
‘It’s a very pleasant town,’ says Gordy. ‘Lots of people here know me,’ he says, adding that he’s probably repaired most of the bikes in town. ‘There’s always something to keep me busy.’
Where to stay
The Brend family has the monopoly on decent accommodation in Barnstaple. Their collection of hotels covers most parts of the budget spectrum.
Treat yourself to a four-star stay right on the riverside. The Imperial is full of Edwardian elegance and old-school brought up to date for the modern traveller. The accommodation has high-ceilings, large windows and tasteful décor. There’s also a State Suite if you’re feeling particularly indulgent.
The Barnstaple Hotel has recently had a refurb. Guests can join the hotel’s leisure club and there’s a heated outdoor pool.
Another Brend hotel is the Royal and Fortescue, a boutique offering in a beautiful Georgian building.
Other accommodation options are available and include Luxury B&B No. 22, which is in a restored Victorian house in a tree-lined street near town and just a few steps from the South West Coast Path. Statement wallpaper, eye-catching artwork and stylish furniture means the views inside here are pretty good. Brekkie includes a choice of pancakes, French toast, eggs benedict and more.
Each visitor to The Old Vicarage is welcomed with homemade cake. The B&B, which has five specious guest bedrooms, is just a short stroll from the town centre.
The Spinney country guesthouse at Shirwell is three miles out of town, in a quiet corner of the North Devon countryside. The house, which dates back to 1750, sits in an acre of grounds.
Brightlycott Barton camping, also at Shirwell, is a four-acre site with panoramic views. There are 23 pitches with electric hook-ups and an area for tents.
If there’s a lot of you, Portmore Grange on the outskirts of town sleeps up to 24. The spacious country house has a nine-seater hot tub in the 1.5-acre garden and its own bar. There’s also a separate property on the estate that can be booked for even larger groups.
The Olde Chapel in Bickington sleeps six and is well-placed to explore Barnstaple and North Devon’s beaches. And it has a remote operated parking turntable! Both properties are available through marsdens.co.uk
Did you know?
Barnstaple Castle is an early 12th century shell-keep on a motte, constructed by the builder of Totnes Castle. It was partly demolished in 1228 and was in ruins by the end of the 14th century. By 1600, the last remaining wall had collapsed. Only the tree covered motte remains.
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