We’ve only been here for a few minutes but as we chat to Nicola, who’s welcoming us to Rewilding Coombeshead, a dragonfly passes by, landing on my husband’s shoulder.
We’re transfixed by the beautiful creature. ‘That must be a sign!’ says a delighted Nicola. Indeed, the dragonfly is associated with ancient wisdom and good fortune, so it’s surely a good omen ahead of our stay; but on a practical level, it also demonstrates how special this place is in terms of wildlife and the natural world.
Rewilding Coombeshead is a 400-acre rewilding site in West Devon, bordering the Tamar Valley. It belongs to Derek Gow, a well-known figure in the rewilding world who has years of experience breeding animals for introduction into the wild in projects across the country.
It all happens here and Coombeshead is also a destination for those wanting or needing to learn more about rewilding and native species reintroduction, or how to bring nature back into gardens as well as larger landscapes. There are regular workshops and tours and for those who want to stay longer or fully immerse themselves in this unique environment, you can book a stay in one of its shepherds’ huts.
The huts are bookable from May through to September; we have arrived just at the end of the season, in the still warm days and chilly nights of autumn. This is a spot deep in the Devon countryside and it’s blissfully quiet. Arriving at the entrance, walking through the gateway, we find ourselves at the top of the site, and realise just how high up we are; the views are stunning, reaching far across hills and valleys.
Nicola takes us across to our hut, tucked in a corner of the field. There are just three huts here, and a similar number in a neighbouring field. They are well spaced out and each has a covered outdoor area where you can do some simple cooking with a gas hob and sink, stash muddy boots and wet clothing, and eat at a table. It’s spacious and well organised and has all we need; but there’s also a large communal barn on site which provides more cooking and dining space (there’s a pizza oven too) as well as sofas, books and room to spread out.
Our hut is a perfect little retreat, with panelled walls, a comfy bed at one end, mini woodburner and antique furniture. It’s very pretty with thoughtful touches like books, bathrobes and info on the surrounding area, it’s homely and so cosy.
Being here is about being as much as possible in the heart of the natural world, seeing how rewilding plays out across the site. So, things are kept simple but efficient; the huts are off grid, with no mains electricity and there are shared compost loos and heated showers.
I suspect like most of us, I’m a bit anxious about an apparent lack of modern comforts, especially a non-flushing loo, but it all works so well. It’s been really well thought out, someone has taken great care to make using these facilities more special; rather than just an everyday essential. You have to plan a bit more, especially going to the loo in the dark, but with a torch and some additional solar lights, it becomes a fun adventure.
This really is a place for adventures, especially that of the animal kind. Around the site are enclosures, housing the animals and birds for the various breeding and reintroduction programmes which Derek and his team are involved in. On our first evening Mike, part of the welcome team with Nicola, gives an introduction to Coombeshead and shows us the pens which house our nearest neighbours, the wildcats. Most are hiding, but it’s a sunny evening and a gorgeous kitten watches us from a warm spot.
These animals are naturally wary, they are kept as much as possible away from human contact, but it’s thrilling to be able to see them. The next day our guide, Tay, takes us around the rest of the site, to the Species Recovery Centre, where we see, and hear the rattling cries of, white storks. It’s such a privilege to be so close and to think these animals were once common in our landscape. I’m keen on seeing a water vole but despite the centre breeding thousands of them every year, today they are firmly tucked up in their cosy beds.
There’s the breeding and reintroduction programme and Coombeshead is also home to some animals which, although native, are not for release, acting instead as an educational tool – like the lynx. Even if they were in the wild you’d never see them, these ‘ghost cats’ as they are known, are woodland creatures and would never come near us, but these three fabulous animals are all rehomed from private collections, and so are used to seeing visitors – lucky for us.
There’s a lot to absorb but we have all the time we need to watch the animals, and ask so many questions. Tay is brilliant, an experienced naturalist and conservationist, who arrived in Devon after research projects and work as a wildlife guide in the Scottish Highlands. He has such knowledge, and patience and a lovely, gentle demeanour, he’s so in tune with both the wildlife and the landscape. He explains about the rewilding ‘helpers’, which free roam across the site, their presence helping to restore the natural landscape.
We encounter the small herd of Exmoor ponies and also water buffalo as we explore the site with Tay, through pasture and meadow and woodlands. It is fascinating to be in a rewilding site – with its mix of environments and features, the fat hedgerows billow out with a multitude of berries, there are swathes of trees with clearings in between, pathways forged by hooves and ‘pasture’ which is filled with hillocks and clumps of grasses and reeds. Tay walks easily through this landscape, but at times I find it hard going, over the clumps and pits; we’ve got so used to flatness, flat concrete, flat lawns, but as he explains, this uneven ground, is a haven for wildlife; pools of water gather in the pits, forming little habitat microcosms; what’s more, they retain and absorb excess rainfall.
We can also explore certain areas of the site on our own, following a walking trail, which takes us along a stream, through ancient woodland.
‘Don’t be afraid if a pig comes running towards you, he’s quite friendly.’ I remember Nicola’s words as we explore this part of Coombeshead, but sadly, we don’t see the iron age wild pig, another one of the site’s ‘helpers’. He’s known to follow visitors around on their walk, but this time he must be off somewhere else – although I’m sure we heard some piggy grunting...
Even if you don’t get the full-on encounter, just knowing you’re sharing the space with these animals is special.
We spend a few hours one evening on beaver watch. The beavers have played a key role in the rewilding of Coombeshead, going back many years. They’ve created its wetlands going through the valley, and as Tay leads us around I’m both astounded and delighted to see the result of their engineering endeavours; they’ve created not scenes of destruction, but a beautiful landscape.
The beavers’ original man-made ‘lagoon’ home is where we quietly sit, in a hide, while Tay tempts the rodents with chunks of apple. You can’t guarantee seeing a beaver, but they’ve been coming out regularly for most days this summer. Apparently 7pm is key beaver time. While we wait, the dusk sounds of the birds gradually quieten; we see several kingfishers, a flash of orange and blue flying straight towards us, right over our heads. A barn owl is quartering the field as Tay leads us quietly through the marsh, close to the water’s edge. It’s almost dark when there’s a loud ‘smack’ on the water, a beaver has spotted us, making its characteristic ‘slap’ in warning, and then... we see it, a head poking up, swimming through the water.
It’s without doubt a magical moment..
rewildingcoombeshead.co.uk
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