Exeter is familiar territory for anyone living in Devon. The county’s capital is where the retail and restaurants are, where music gigs and theatre performances happen, where you go to hang out with cool people. Basically, it’s your city fix. I go there a lot for that reason. I love living in a seaside town, but I also like to see how the urban and trendy half live, what they’re wearing and eating etc.
Stepping out from Exeter Central station provides a good introduction. Nearby Queen Street and the Guildhall are full of cafés and restaurants, heavily populated by students from the city’s prestigious university and college. Then the lure of the High Street and Princesshay shopping centre pulls you towards the big-name brands. It’s good to get all of that out of the way before you concentrate on what’s really great about Exeter – its independents, its history and its quay. Those are the things that keep us locals interested once we’ve done what we came here to do (take that top back to John Lewis; pick up two berry bowl yogurts pots from Pret a Manger for my daughter).
Fore Street is part of the city’s West Quarter, the place to go for something different. It’s lined with little cafés, clothing boutiques and gift shops. The Fore Street Flea takes place throughout the year and helps to draw people towards this often overlooked part of the city. McCoys Arcade is particularly excellent. The quirky, undercover parade includes a vintage clothing shop, bookshop, café, hairdressers and artisan workshop.
Understandably, eyes will be at shop window level but make sure you take a good look up, down and all around. Exeter has some incredible buildings. In Fore Street, there’s Tuckers Hall built in 1471 as Guildhall of the Incorporation of Weavers, Fullers and Shearmen. Just off Fore Street is the 11th century St Nicholas Priory. The House that Moved is a famous timber-framed merchant’s house originally built in the late Middle Ages and relocated to West Street in 1961 to make way for a new bypass. That’s before you even get to Exeter Cathedral or the historic quayside. This was and is a fascinating city.
3 to see
Rammed with knowledge
The city’s Royal Albert Memorial Museum (RAMM) is one of Exeter’s best bits. More than one million fascinating objects and specimens are housed in this magnificent building. The natural sciences section is always a favourite. There’s an African elephant! And the best thing? It’s free to enter. rammuseum.org.uk
Be guided
One of the best ways to see Exeter is with a Red Coat guide. The free walking tours cover a selection of routes through the city, with themes including Tudors, ghosts and legends and royalty. The 90-minute tours depart from the Richard Hooker Statue on Cathedral Green. Group tours must be booked in advance. visitexeter.com
Feel spiritual
You’ve got to see Exeter Cathedral. Being inside this 1,000-year-old building is a truly uplifting experience. For a deeper dive, sign up to one of the guided or audio-guided tours. You can see some of the cathedral’s rare and ancient artefacts through the Treasures Exhibition, set inside the 19th century Pearson Building above the shop. exeter-cathedral.org.uk
Business time
Mortimers jewellers in Exeter’s Queen Street was founded in 1970 and is one of the South West’s leading specialists in fine, antique and modern jewellery.
The well-established family-run business buys and sells jewellery, watches, gold and silver, often via personalised appointments from their city centre shop. The team here can also carry out jewellery servicing and repairs.
Managing director Ian Watson is a jewellery and watch expert with over 40 years’ experience. He says being part of such an iconic cathedral city is important to the business: ‘Mortimers draws inspiration from centuries of history, vibrant culture, and enduring charm – a perfect setting for timeless jewellery and modern elegance.’
mortimersjewellers.co.uk
Where to eat
Let’s start at the quay and work our way up. Indie eatery Crave (Commercial Road) is a relatively new arrival doing great things by the water. The place is buzzing with diners enjoying the all-day menu, full of local ingredients served in a laid-back style. Brunch, roasts and freshly landed seafood, plus creative veggie and vegan options make this a destination to suit all tastes. Staying on the quay, The Prospect Inn is an independent pub with a range of local ales and food. Its pub classics menu includes pasties and pies, plus Elston Farm venison and hog lasagne.
Good coffee and good vibes await in Fore Street at the Glorious Art Café, The Press House, and Sacred Grounds in McCoys Arcade (below). Tea more your thing? (I agree). The quirkily named House of Hope and Mercy in the Jungle also in McCoys Arcade, is an independent specialist tea boutique. They ethically source leaves from across the globe.
My sandwich quest this month led me to Between Bread (North Street). I went early because I’ve heard they queue out the door at peak times to get morning buns, focaccia, toasties and more. I was going to go for the beef brisket with dipping gravy but went for what I thought would be a lighter option – the French onion toastie. Thank goodness it wasn’t. Delicious.
The Turks Head (High Street) is one of the area’s oldest pubs and was said to be a favourite watering hole of Charles Dickens. The 700-year-old building has its own brewery on site. Devon Coffee (Queen Street) is small and perfectly formed. My coffee drinking contacts tell me it’s one of the best around. I like the toasties.
For lunch, drinks and small plates with your mates, head to Lloyd’s Lounge (above) in Catherine Street. They have live music on Friday nights, too.
Up at the John Lewis end of the city, Harry’s Restaurant (Longbrook Street) is a longstanding locals’ fave. The hearty menu includes steaks from Darts Farm, Devon crab linguine and truffled mushroom risotto.
Tyepyedong is our go-to noodle (and rice) fix in the city. The independent, family-run restaurant in Sidwell Street does a lunch special between 12pm and 3pm. The Wondering Dragon is a popular special- prawns, chicken, beef, carrot, pepper, snow peas and fresh chilli cooked in a Tyepyedong garlic and black bean sauce, served with fragrant rice.
Meet the locals
Sarah Bagouin and Adam Keslake,
Makers
Potter Sarah and leathermaker Adam moved into their shop and workshop, called Twain, in McCoys Arcade in December.
‘We’re in this lovely quiet corner of Exeter and people seem to have found us,’ says Adam. ‘We’ve met a really nice bunch – there’s a nice little community.
‘I’ve been coming to McCoys Arcade since the early 90s. It’s been part of my life for a long time so it’s great we’ve managed to get a little shop here.
‘We both love Exeter. It’s a great spot in the South West. You’re close to Dartmoor and loads of lovely beaches.’
Jason Mortimore
Shop owner
Jason runs Fantasy World fancy dress hire shop in Fore Street. The business has been on this street for about 40 years. Jason, who has lived and worked in Exeter all his life, took over his family-run firm round 25 years ago.
‘In this part of the city, you’ve got all the independent shops that offer something a bit different from the high street.
‘The footfall here has quietened down slightly and you do see shops come and go, but it’s still popular.
The student population keeps us going, especially during freshers’ week.’
Where to stay
Exeter has a good mix of high-end and budget options, all within easy reach of the good stuff. Hotel du Vin in Magdalen Street is one of a chain of 19 boutique hotels across the country that offers stylish stays in nice buildings. You’ll see that Exeter’s example is in the city’s former eye infirmary, designed in the Baroque Revival style of architecture in the early 19th century. The Grade II-listed building served as a specialist eye hospital for nearly a century before closing in 1992. It’s been a couple of different hotels over the years before Hotel du Vin took it over in 2016.
Another treat yourself place is Hotel Indigo, part of the IHG group. It arrived in a converted department store building in Catherine Street in 2022. It markets itself as a ‘skyline destination’ and has a rooftop bar (above) with impressive views over Cathedral Green.
Another well-placed chain is the Mercure Exeter Southgate in Southernhay. From here you can easily access the area’s restaurants, retail and bars.
Townhouse Exeter (St David’s Hill) is in a quieter corner but still close to the action. Nine tastefully done bedrooms feature ‘Finer than Down’ duvets with a pillow selection. Breakfasts here, delivered to your door, are said to be a real treat (especially the chef-prepared breakfast yogurt pots).
Another converted townhouse is the Queens Court Hotel (Bystock Terrace). Guests can enjoy staying in a Grade II-listed building with all mod cons. A family room or terraced suite are available.
For a decent pub with rooms, try the Turks Head (High Street). There’s a nice vibe in here, downstairs by the bar/microbrewery and upstairs in the cosy rooms. Because of the age of the building, the rooms are accessible only by small, steep steps.
For a quirky stay, Shepherd’s Delight is set in four acres of woodlands just outside the city near Poltimore. The well-appointed hut has a comfortable double bed at one end and en suite mains water shower. Pure luxe. It’s available through classic.co.uk.
Notice board
Catch a flea
The Fore Street Flea market is due to return in May, July and September (dates due to be announced soon). Now in its 10th year, the regular event is a firm favourite with locals and visitors. Expect live music, entertainment, food, drink and plenty of bargains. exeter.gov.uk
Take pride
Exeter Pride takes place on May 9. Last year’s celebration of the city’s lesbian, gay, bisexual, trans and queer communities attracted around 9,000 attendees, with 4,000 participants in the march. The plan is to go even bigger and better this year. To find out more or become an event volunteer, see exeterpride.co.uk
Magical month
June Boom is a month-long series of events designed to showcase the city’s buzzing arts and culture scene. Music performances, comedy shows, heritage tours, theatre, art, literature and more will be taking place at venues across Exeter. visitexeter.com
Magdalen Road
This is a cool little spot just outside the city centre, with nice places to eat, drink and shop. On June 27, the area will host the Creative Street Festival. There will be stalls and plenty of making and creating. The festival is organised by the St Leonards Neighbourhood Association.
Did you know
Exeter is putting in a bid to become the UK City of Culture in 2029.There is an assessment process before the winner is announced later this year. The UK City of Culture competition is designed to support cities, towns and regions to deliver a year of cultural activity.
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