Portland...past
Undoubtedly the most dramatic changes to anywhere in Dorset during the 19th century occurred in its most isolated place – the Island and Royal Manor of Portland. When Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837 its population of under 3,000 was scattered across the Island. To reach it, visitors either trudged two miles along Chesil Beach (Portland is a tied island) or trusted a hazardous rope-operated ferry at Smallmouth. Its isolation had made it proudly independent, with its own traditions and customs – many of which had not changed for centuries.
The Island, a sloping block of limestone, was reliant on the stone from its quarries – used in Christopher Wren’s rebuilding of St Paul’s Cathedral. In the mid-19th century, a quarter of the adult male population worked in the quarries, others were either fishing or farming, smuggling was a useful side-line.
By 1901, the population had risen to over 15,000. Fortuneswell’s main street, the principal route to Tophill, was lined with the shops and businesses, complete with ornate decorative masonry. And there were newly laid out pleasure gardens at Easton and Underhill.
And the reasons for these changes? Firstly, the opening of the Ferry Bridge in 1839, connecting it to the mainland. Then in January 1847, the Government decided ‘to make Portland in Dorsetshire a penal settlement, and to employ the convicts on the Breakwater . . . constructing a citadel and running fortifications entirely round the Island.’ Over the next 50 years convict labour transformed Portland, creating the world’s largest man-made with secure naval anchorage.
The Army followed in the Royal Navy’s wake, and the convicts constructed vast fortifications on the summit of Verne Hill, which were manned by a permanent garrison and batteries of heavy guns.
For Portlanders the biggest improvement was the arrival of gas lighting and the railway in 1865. The influx of outsiders come to work on the Harbour or defences brought new money to the Island. In summer tourists came by paddle steamer to admire the battleships of the Channel Fleet, or watch convicts working in the new inland quarries. Despite all this progress, Portland remained unique. However, the 1901 census confirmed that it had changed, only one third of the population had been born on the Island.
Portland...present
Portland Castle: Dating from 1540, this is one of the best preserved and finest example of King Henry VIII’s coastal forts. Overlooking Portland Harbour, it was used as a fort until 1815. english-heritage.org.uk
Portland Bill: Since the 18th century lighthouses warned ships of Portland's notorious reefs. The red and white striped Portland Bill Lighthouse, dating from 1906, is still in operation and open to visitors. trinityhouse.co.uk
b-side: This internationally recognised locally run arts festival, held every September, draws inspiration from the Isle of Portland for collaborative commissions of art and performance celebrating its unique location and people. b-side.org.uk
