I adore our life in Dorset, but there are moments when my mind hankers after the old London life. Especially when I was in my thirties - running my own production company, powering away in the gym before work, wearing Armani trouser suits and going out every night of the week to the theatre, BAFTA screenings or to fabulous restaurants. I was ‘living my best life’ before that cliche had even been invented (and sorry to add – before I met The Pirate!).
Of the restaurants I frequented, there was none I loved more than Nobu in Park Lane when it had just opened. Not only did I have a sense of achievement that I’d actually secured a table booking, and I loved the shouted Japanese greeting irasshaimase as I was walked to my table, but the food was the best I ever ate. The incredible sashimi, the garlic shrimp, but most of all – the black cod miso, a dish that delivers the best flavour and texture combination I’ve ever had.
That life seems a far cry from my post pandemic existence in rural North Dorset. It’s a healthy home cooked supper every night followed by an hour of the current box set (yes Walker Towers is SO rock ‘n’ roll). So, when I was recently invited to see a show in Dorchester (a whole 50 minutes away) on a Thursday evening I had to wrestle with myself. Going out on a school night? With an early tennis lesson the next day? But then I had a brainwave - Myra’s Kaiseki - a small Japanese restaurant in High East Street, almost opposite the venue. We had been in there briefly once before, after seeing a band play at the Corn Exchange. Six of us had devoured a sharing platter of sushi and I left thinking we must return. Here was my chance.
The day arrived, and it was pouring with rain. The Pirate had been recording shows and interviews all day. ‘We don’t have to go if you don’t want…’ I said with uncharacteristic understanding. He looked at me aghast: ‘And keep my Tigs from a Japanese meal? I couldn’t do that.’ What an understanding Pirate.
We booked an early table so as not to be rushed. Looking at the menu I sighed saying that one day I would come and do their seven-course tasting menu. ‘Why not now?’ asked the Pirate. Why not indeed. Especially as the word Kaiseki means a traditional multi-course Japanese meal.
The maître d' is a softly spoken man called Paul who is full of sincerity and a respect for Japanese traditions – he is married to the Japanese head chef, Myra. When he brought us a small ceramic jug of hot sake, he told us that we were not to fill our own cups. The tradition is to tap your cup on the table and let someone else fill it. That was something I never learnt at Nobu.
Miso soup was followed by a delicious platter of sushi and sashimi (raw fish). Myra is a fully trained sushi chef; it takes enormous skill and a very sharp knife to cut sashimi. It also takes great produce. The salmon and tuna melted in the mouth. The sushi roll with Dorset crab was divine. I was too ecstatic to notice the Pirate thumping his little sake cup on the table. He had to add a cough. His cup was duly filled.
After Izakaya - a new word for my Japanese vocabulary (which included excellent huge tempura prawns that proved to be the Pirate’s crowning dish) came the thing I most anticipated. Their miso marinated black cod with rice. Though it wasn’t quite Nobu standard – neither was the price. That said, it was wonderful to eat such a firm culinary favourite in Dorset. Kushiyaki (spiced chicken skewers) and Japanese Wagyu beef cooked on a hot plate meant there was precious little time left before the performance commenced over the road at the Corn Exchange.
‘Come back later for your dessert,’ suggested Paul. And true to his word, our table was kept for us. Just over an hour later we returned, feeling rather glutenous, for the final and seventh course of semi-freddo cake and exotic fruits. We even tried Ume-Shu, a dessert sake made from plums.
I loved our meal at Myra’s Kaiseki. It felt a proper culinary event. If we lived closer to Dorchester I’d be there at least once a month. It is an unassuming looking restaurant, but judging by the number of covers they did on our two visits, it is far from a secret. If you haven’t experienced this Dorset dining experience yet, I can only suggest that you do.
More details at myraskaisekirestaurant.com
