Bedingfeld Arms, Oxborough
Deep in rural Norfolk, surrounded by tree-arched lanes linking farms and villages, the Bedingfeld Arms has some seriously impressive neighbours – and still manages to shine.
Next door is a fine church, nestled in the ruins of a bigger church. Beyond is spectacular Oxburgh Hall.
The Bedingfeld family, who gave their name to the Bedingfeld Arms, have lived in the hall, now owned by the National Trust, for more than 500 years. The Bedingfeld Arms has been a coaching inn since 1783 – and is now a luxury B&B, village pub and excellent restaurant.
Our table out on the veranda was definitely somewhere worth lingering so we went for three courses. As soon as I saw the starters menu I knew my husband would not be able to resist trying muntjac – the first time I’d ever seen the dear little deer served as food, and fitting the local and seasonal ethos of much of the menu.
I had perfectly cooked asparagus (with a crunch but no chewiness) and poached egg, served with a hollandaise sauce so splendid I have to admit to using a finger to scoop up the final traces.
Our main courses were a richly coloured and flavoured fish stew with crusty bread and garlic mayo and Zuwi’s aubergine fold, stuffed with spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and cheese and served with green beans and tenderstem broccoli.
As befits a setting so lovely, and a menu so ambitious and creative, every dish looked as good as it tasted, as did this glorious elaboration of vegetables, grains, nuts and cheese, folded into a thick slice of my all-time favourite vegetable, aubergine. Many of the dishes feature vegetables, salad, fruit and herbs from the pub garden and meat from the family farm.
The service was notably good too with a series of friendly and helpful young people showing us to our seats, bringing menus and water, taking and delivering our orders and being all-round charming.
The desserts included puds, possets, ice cream and a cheesecake of the day. This particular summer Sunday it was a sublime Norfolk rhubarb cheesecake crumble
Oh, that cheesecake. Stewed and sugared rhubarb stirred into a creamy cheesey puree, set on a shortbread base, sprinkled with crunchy crumble and served with a swirl of syrupy rhubarb. Heavenly.
My husband loves a cheeseboard and this was a particularly good one, entirely Norfolk, plus some particularly good biscuits and fruit.
With the food, setting and atmosphere so condusive to lingering it was lucky the Bedingfeld Arms had those impressive neighbours. If we hadn’t needed to explore Oxborough and Oxburgh we might still be there.
bedingfeldarms.co.uk
Rowan Mantell
