Robert Kisby's cooking and the intriguing setting of Cabbage Hall make for a delightful dining experience
WORDS BY RAY KING
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN COCKS
Cheshire Life Luncheon Menu
To startNew season asparagus from Richard WildingCaliterra Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009, Chile
To ContinueReg’s Goosnargh confit duck, red wine jusCaliterra Merlot Reserve, Chile 2008
To finishClassic lemon tart
Fact file
Cabbage Hall Restaurant & Bar, Forest Road, Little Budworth, Tarporley, Cheshire. CW6 9ES.Tel: 01829 760292; www.cabbagehallrestaurant.com
Restaurant: Open Mon-Sat noon-10pm; Sun noon-8pm.
‘Bespoke’ Menu starters from �7.95; mains from �15.95; desserts �5.95.‘Tailors’ Menu 6pm-7pm; two courses �15.95. ‘Designer’ Platters from �29.95. Lunchtime ‘One Piece’ menu: dishes from �8.95.
Despite the top drawer fruit and vegetables grown in this particularly bounteous corner of Cheshire, Cabbage Hall, Great Budworth, has nothing to do with brassicas. In fact the name derives from scraps of cloth sold here in Victorian times.
And, given the grandeur of the Duke of Westminster’s stately pile just down the road at Eaton, using the term ‘hall’ for this modest former pub by the roadside of the main A49 is, shall we say, stretching it a bit.
That is not to say, however, that Cabbage Hall in its current incarnation – Restaurant & Bar and domain of accomplished chef-patron Robert Kisby – won’t treat you like a lord. And, as guests at Cheshire Life’s luncheon discovered, its vegetables – not so much cabbage as asparagus as it turned out – are pretty darned good too.
Kisby, former member of the late Gilbert Lef�vre’s Michelin-starred brigade at Manchester’s Midland Hotel, made a name for himself in the city by putting the Charles Hall� Room at the Bridgewater Hall on the culinary map and then doing the same at Le Mont on the top floors of the iconic glass landmark, Urbis. Doing both at the same time for a period was, in retrospect, quite remarkable.
Then, a couple of years ago Kisby arrived at the extensively remodelled Cock o’ Barton in Malpas and, in culinary terms, proved himself cock of the walk by winning widespread critical acclaim including Best Newcomer in Cheshire Life’s 2007 Food & Wine Awards.
Succeeding another of Manchester’s more flamboyant chef-restaurateurs, Francis Carroll, at Cabbage Hall, Kisby has – as he did at Malpas – cultivated local suppliers to great effect and their superb produce is deservedly highlighted on all his various menus. He has also, following quite extensive decorative refurbishment, stamped his own style on the look of the place. Some of the gilt furnishings still wouldn’t look out of place in Madame de Pompadour’s boudoir – but much of the decadence of the previous regime has been very tastefully toned down and the introduction of striking prints gives all the dining areas, arranged in split levels around the attractive bar, a pleasing contemporary ambience.
Guests were greeted with elegant flutes of champagne cocktail flavoured with raspberry framboise and deftly crafted canap�s in Cabbage Hall’s enclosed back garden before stepping back inside for the main event at tables delightfully decorated with blooms from Gaynor Jones’ Flower Room in nearby Tarporley.
We started with new season’s asparagus grown by Richard Wilding virtually in the next field- and what a treat this taste of the English spring really is. The deliciously flavoured spears came wrapped in Woodall’s robust Cumbrian air-dried ham together with a perfect poached then pan-fried locally sourced egg and choron sauce, a variation of hollandaise tinted with tomato pur�e. The accompanying white wine, supplied by Jon Campbell of DeFine Wines just down the road in Sandiway, was the classic partner for asparagus: a lovely sappy, green fruit laden sauvignon blanc, though not from France’s Loire region but from the highly respected Caliterra winery in Chile.
The main course had seen Kisby and his talented head chef, Mike Brooke, who made many friends during his long stint at Peck’s Restaurant, near Congleton, take an excursion over the Lancashire border to source their Goosnargh duck, raised by Reg Johnson, star of the Ribble Valley. It was presented in the modern French style as confit duck leg on puy lentils and accompanied by sweet Chantenay carrots, roasted beetroot and a rich red wine jus. The Caliterra estate also provided the red wine: a reserve merlot from the 2008 vintage offering bags of smooth and concentrated red fruit.
Dessert brought another French classic, skilfully executed: a delicious wedge of lemon tart, the balance of sweetness and citrussy bite absolutely spot on, garnished with fresh raspberries. Front of the house staff marshalled by Paul Connolly, former sommelier at the Chester Grosvenor’s Arkle Restaurant, did us proud throughout.
