As I meandered up the lovely A6 route from Matlock towards Derby I reflected on the fact I have probably been to Derby County’s Pride Park Stadium as much in the past few years as I have into Derby city centre itself.
This hasn’t always been the case. I spent four years working in Derby and the city holds many happy memories.
In fact, as I parked up on Derwent Street I was feeling ever so slightly nostalgic. I was immediately in for a surprise, however, when I walked past my favourite pub from times past – The Brewery Tap.
However, it’s no longer The Brewery Tap, but The Royal Standard. I didn’t go in but it looked as appealing and lovely as I’d remembered.
One addition to the pub’s exterior is a blue plaque by the door which, I read with interest, states: ‘Reg Parnell, F1 Racer, Team Manager, Farmer & British F1 Champion 1946/47 Lived Here’.
I crossed Exeter Bridge – each corner marked by sculptures of four of Derby’s most famous and consequential sons; namely John Lombe, William Hutton, Herbert Spencer and Erasmus Darwin – and headed over the road to the Market Place.
The Market Square appeared comfortingly familiar, the Guildhall standing proudly as its focal point. My immediate impression was that it seemed quite quiet. Perhaps this isn’t too unusual for a Thursday afternoon
I made a beeline for Derby Market Hall, which I’ve read so much about and have been excited to see first-hand.
Having reopened in May after a £35.1m restoration, the iconic Market Hall promised to create a ‘vibrant hub that brings together the region's best independent shops, eateries, bars, and entertainment all under one beautiful roof.’
The job they’ve done is impressive. It’s a fine venue with many appealing traders – Mardy Ducks, Tikka Tales, Potful of Crumble, and Market Porter a few to catch my eye.
It was a little quiet and I know the council recently announced new opening times to manage the needs of both customers and the independent traders established there.
These things take time to grow, especially given the Market Hall was closed for so long. I have no doubt it will be a big asset to the city over the coming years.
I exited out onto Lock Up Yard – a place with a fascinating history, which I learned much about when writing Abandoned Derbyshire.
Past the Fish Market and onto the Corn Market, which felt busier than the Market Place.
Among the usual high street brands, Book Café – housed in a grand building with the words ‘Derby and Derbyshire Banking Company’ etched into the stone – stood out. It looked busy inside, customers perhaps intrigued by its promise of being ‘Just a little bit quirky’.
As I made my way to St Peter’s Street I was met with the smell of freshly made donuts, close to where St Peter’s Church stands.
St Peter’s in the City dates back to the 11th century and now, as the name suggests, sits right in the heart of the city as Derby has built up around it. It’s still a valued community asset today.
In the impressive Vaillant Live on Colyear Street, Derby has a new entertainment building to be proud of, but it was interesting looking around the city centre just how many entertainment buildings were active here in days gone by.
Lilygrey Hair Salon now occupies a space in a very striking building which bares the hallmarks of being a former entertainment venue although I struggled to find any evidence of its former use – perhaps a reader can enlighten me?
Just a short walk away on Green Lane stands – just about – the Derby Hippodrome, a much-loved relic from a bygone age which once drew large crowds and household names.
Now in a sorry state, the Derby Hippodrome Restoration Trust has advocated for many years to bring it back to life. It was quite poignant to stand next to it, imaging all the laughs, sounds and music that once emanated from it.
On Babington Lane, across the road from Jillian Hart Fashions and Hunters Furniture, the latter having occupied the site there since 1928, stands another former entertainment venue, The Grand Theatre, which opened back in 1886. It’s been used for various purposes since then, with only its original outer façade surviving.
My next port of call was The Spot, across from Osmaston Road. To my knowledge, nobody is quite sure how it got its name, but it remains a popular part of Derby for people to meet.
I hadn’t planned on going into Derbion, the city’s shopping centre, however as I was stood right next to one of the entrances I decided to head inside, past an impressive stainless steel ram statue which was erected in 2019 – one of three ram statues I spotted on my trip.
One of the curious aspects of Derbion is that, as there are so many entrance points, you’re never quite sure where exactly you will find yourself when you leave – that’s certainly the case for me.
As it happens, I exited at the bottom of East Street and headed immediately across the road to River Lights, which incorporates the bus station, casino and hotel.
The walk back along the river towards the impressive Council House on Corporation Street is a nice one as the River Derwent opens out before you.
The river is inextricably linked to the story of Derby, particularly through the Industrial Revolution, and I know there are plans to make it a more impactful part of city life here, as it’s easy to forget it’s even there when you’re in the city centre itself.
Crossing the road back towards the Market Place I spent some time in the Sir Peter Hilton Memorial Garden, which I’d never done before.
It includes four plaques, including one presented to the City of Derby Windrush Group in 2019, dedicated to the communities from the Caribbean who settled in the city.
Heading back onto the Market Place I was drawn to an old building a stone’s throw from QUAD, a key cultural hub for the city.
Royal Oak House is currently Derby Registry Office, however it comes across as a place with a long history. Indeed, I spotted elaborate sandstone sculptures on the mock Tudor façade and, at the very top, the words ‘The Royal Oak’ etched into the design.
On the side of the building I also discovered a blue plaque which reads: ‘Dr Percival Willoughby 1596-1685. Physician and pioneer of gynaecology. Site of his home c. 1660-1685.’
What a fascinating aspect of Derby’s history this place is. So easy to miss given the more prominent buildings it competes with in this part of the city, not least the Guildhall.
A gentleman, named Geoff Morris, had been watching me gazing at the building and made his way over. He wasn’t sure how long ago it closed as a pub but told me it definitely wasn’t a pub back in 1958, by which point it had been taken over by the water board.
Geoff was a lovely gentleman and seemed a real Derby man. He told me he’d worked on the railways in his youth before moving into telecommunications in the city. With a firm handshake, we parted ways.
Derby’s Cathedral Quarter is lovely and I enjoyed walking down Sadler Gate. The Old Bell looks striking, still a pub now and proudly dating back to 1717. The Fig, tucked into the corner, also makes for a delightful aesthetic.
There’s something about Sadler Gate, it almost has a Carnaby Street vibe to it. There are so many wonderful independents here, such as Mr Shaw’s House and Milk & Honey, not to mention Derby Uncovered, the city’s heritage centre.
The colours too are a delight, with buildings painted orange, yellow, blue and more. The only issue is that despite being so close to Market Place, it can feel a little out the way and is easy to miss but it’s worth the visit.
Onto The Strand I went and opposite I noticed Derby Museum and Art Gallery, home to the finest collection of work by Joseph Wright of Derby, the acclaimed 18th century painter.
As I wandered towards Derby Cathedral, guided by the sounds of its bells as they chimed 3pm, I realised I had perhaps underappreciated just how much beautiful architecture there is in Derby, especially here in the Cathedral Quarter.
As I entered the cathedral the organ was being played, which made for a rousing atmosphere. I’ve been here before but for specific occasions, so it was nice to have a look around. It’s a special place and, given my interest in the Tudor era, it felt powerful to stand next to the effigy of Bess of Hardwick, who is buried in the Cavendish Vault below.
I was also fascinated to discover a number of stairs, open to the public, which lead down beneath floor level to Saint Katherine’s Chapel, a place for quiet prayer and reflection – a part of the cathedral I never realised existed.
After leaving the cathedral I headed down Iron Gate, a particularly aesthetically pleasing part of Derby. Here, I spotted the monument to Joseph Wright and saw a plaque on the building close by which reads: ‘Site of the birthplace of Joseph Wright. Born 1734. Died 1797.’ Up to this point, I’d never realised the monument stood directly next to where he was born.
There was one nagging frustration as my trip drew to a close. They say ignorance is bliss but, knowing the city as I do, I was well aware there was plenty more to be explored.
Pickford’s House, Derby Gaol, St Mary’s Church, Friar Gate, the new Vaillant Live building… just some of the places I hadn’t stumbled across on this serendipitous trip.
However, as I made my way back to Derwent Street I did make one final stop – to the Museum of Making.
Derby Silk Mill is widely regarded as the site of the world’s first modern factory. In this respect, Derby changed the world.
What Derby Museums has done here is remarkable and I loved looking around this historic building, which incorporates so much of the city’s proud heritage and history. Free to enter, it’s worth a visit.
It was a fine way to round off an enjoyable and enlightening trip to Derby.
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